UUSb    LIBRARY  ''KU^ 


Our  Holiday  in  Africa 


BY 
W.  W.  WHE[i:LER 


Author  of 

"Three  Months  in  Foreign   Lands" 

"A  Glimpse  of  The  Pacific  Isles" 

"Encircling  The  Globe" 

'Discoveries  in  South  America  and  West  Indies. 


COPVItlOHTED    1'.I12 

By  \V.  W.  WHEELKK 


INDEX 


Page 

Outward  Round 5 

Port  Said n 

Red  Sea   1 1 

Port  Sudan     13 

Aden 19 

Mombasa 21 

Uganda  Railwa}-   27 

Nairobi   37 

Victoria  Xyanza    41 

Uganda    45 

Natives   S7 

Zanzibar   ''^J 

Mozanil)i(|ue 7 1 

Beira 77 

Salisl)ur\-    81 

Victoria  Trails <^5 

Bulawayo   95 

03 
1 1 

■23 

^7 
31 

:^7 
45 
47 

Si 

S7 
^3 


Kimberly 

Johannes!  )urg 

Durban   

East  London 

Port  FJizal)eth   

Cape  Town 

Cecil  John  Rliodes 

Soutli  African    I'arhament 

Madeira 

England    

Summary    


THE    RED    LINE    SHOWS 


THE   COURSE   OF   OUR   TRIP. 


PREFACE 

Would  \i)U.  like  to  travel  in  strani^e  lands?  If  so,  come 
with  us  and  take  a  "Holiday  in  Africa."  "The  Dark  Conti- 
nent," or  "The  Unknown  Continent,"  as  it  is  sometimes  calleck 

The  interior  was  unknown  to  civilized  man  until  sixty 
years  ago,  and  even  todav  man}-  \-ast  sections  have  ne\'er  heen 
visited  hy  white  man,  and  in  most  of  those  parts  which  have 
heen  opened  up  hy  European  colonization  there  is  hut  a  very 
sparse  settlement  of  whites. 

Our  own  people  of  the  United  States  very  seldom  visit 
Africa.  In  fact,  we  met  hut  one  American,  who  was  traveling 
in  that  countr}-  for  ])leasure.  so  that  up  to  the  present  to  us  it 
is  really  "The  Unknown  Continent." 

The  interior  is  occupied  hy  a  dense  population  of  the  de- 
scendants of  Ham,  and  many  of  these  trihes  ha\'e  apparently 
flescended  in  the  scale  of  intelligence  since  Ham  took  Africa 
for  his  homestead.  Also,  all  kinds  of  African  game,  hig  and 
little.     It  is  the  greatest  hunting  ground  on  earth. 

We  have,  for  a  long  time,  had  a  desire  to  \-isit  this  great 
continent,  and  having  an  ()i)i)ortunity  to  take  a  holiday,  my 
wife  and  I  decided  to  spend  it  in  .Vfrica.  Airs.  Wdieeler  has 
greatly  assisted  me,  and  to  her  }-ou  may  ascrihe  all  that  you 
find  that  is  good  (if  }'ou  find  anv).  in  this  little  hook,  and 
hlame  me  for  the  rest. 

The  following  pages  will  gi\e  }'ou  a  rvvy  brief  re])ort  of 
some  things  we  saw  "In  Darkest  Africa."  You  will  find  lOO 
photographic  illustrations  of  scenes  t\'pical  of  the  country, 
which  will  also  hel|)  to  give  you  an  idea  of  things  as  they 
actually  ap])ear  to  the  tra\-eler. 

In  reading  this  hboklet,  we  hope  that  you  ma}-  feel  that 
you  are  making  the  trip  with  us  and  enjoy  the  journe}-. 

Sincerel}-  yours, 

W.  W.  WHEELER. 


OTR   HOLIDAY   IX   Al-KICA 


OUTWARD  BOUND 

January  24th,  1912.  we  sailed  from  New  York  on  the 
superbly  appointed  steamship  "Olympic,"  sister  ship  to  the 
fated  "Titanic."  She  is  the  greatest  vessel  that  ever  sailed 
the  seas  up  to  the  present  time.  She  cost  seven  and  one-half 
million  dollars,  and  has  a  crew  of  eight  hundred  and  sixty 
men,  accommodations  for  twenty-five  hundred  passengers, 
average  speed  is  over  fi\'e  hundred  miles  per  day.  Length 
over  all,  eight  hundred  and  eighty-two  feet.  Think  of  it,  over 
one-sixth  of  a  mile,  nearly  as  long  as  three  of  our  city  blocks; 
breadth,  ninety-two  feet;  height  to  the  top  deck,  one  hundred 
and  five  feet,  having  eleven  Steele  decks.  Lighted  and  heated 
by  electricity,  the  state  rooms  are  large  and  elegantly  fur- 
nished. By  divine  instructions  Noah  built  the  Ark.  It  was 
large  enough  to  meet  requirements  at  that  time,  being  five 
hundred  and  fiftv  feet  long,  ninety  feet  wide  and  fifty-four 
feet  high,  divided  into  three  decks.  The  floor  space  was 
less  than  one-sixth  of  the  floor  space  of  the  "Olympic."  Com- 
pare the  twd  and  we  get  an  idea  of  the  progress  that  has 
been  made  in  shipping  during  the  last  four  thousand  years. 
We  regret  that  we  are  not  able  to  show  here  a  photograph  of 
the  Ark  for  com])arison  ;  we  were  too  late  to  get  it.  The  di- 
mensions of  the  Ark  are  given  in  the  Bible;  look  it  up  and 
verifv  the  figures.  The  comfort  and  C(^nvenience  of  ocean  going 
steamers  in  recent  years  has  almost  eliminated  time  and  dis- 
tance, and  one  can  travel  from  any  place  to  any  place  on  the 
surface  of  our  globe  in  a  few  months  without  great  discom- 
fort;  and  this  is  one  reason  why  we  are  going  to  South  Africa 
this  winter. 

Africa  is  an  immense  continent  with  teeming  millions  of 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


OUTWARD  BOUND 

black  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  have  never  seen  the  face  of 
a  white  man.  There  are  thousands  of  miles  in  the  heart  of 
this  great  countr}-  yet  unexplored. 

We  passed  by.  at  this  time.  Xorthern  Africa,  that  bor- 
ders on  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  which  is  more  familiar  to 
readers  and  many  travelers.  Also  Western  Africa  and  the 
interior  of  the  Congo  region,  that  part  associated  with  the 
name  of  the  great  explorer,  Henry  M.  Stanley.  All  that  we 
could  do  in  the  short  space  of  a  four  months'  journey  was  to 
sail  entirely  around  the  great  continent,  about  eighteen  thou- 
sand miles,  and  go  into  the  interior  of  British  East  and 
South  Africa  as  far  as  the  railroad  would  take  us.  Also  we 
crossed  the  largest  fresh  water  lake  in  the  world,  \"ictoria 
Nyanza,  to  Uganda.  We  did  no  caravan  or  walking  trips, 
as  those  who  go  for  shooting. 

We  planned  this  trip  and  took  it  alone,  and  did  exactly 
as  we  had  planned,  never  missed  a  connection  on  rail  or  steam- 
ship; had  remarkable  health  and  enjoyed  it  to  the  fullest. 

On  leaving  the  "Olympic"  at  Cherbourg,  F'rance,  in  the 
evening  about  eight  o'clock,  by  tender,  we  looked  back  at  a 
most  wonderful  sight.  The  big  ship,  with  all  her  immense 
windows  ablaze  with  light,  and  reflecting  the  light  in  the 
dark  water,  looked  like  enchanted  fairy  land ;  a  sight  never  to 
be  forgotten. 

A\'e  had  a  most  amusing  experience  going  through  the 
little  P^rench  custom  house.  It  was  very  dark  and  the  in- 
spectors only  had  a  few  dim  lanterns  with  which  to  look  into 
our  bags  and  trunks.  Only  a  form,  of  course,  but  there  were 
so  many  people's  bags  to  be  marked,  that  we  came  very  nearly 
missing  our  train  for  Paris.  Idiere  were  no  sleeping  cars,  so 
we  liad  to  sit  u])  all  night,  arriving  in  Paris  on  a  cold  winter's 
morning  at  four  o'clock. 

The  city  of  Paris  is  always  interesting,  but  our  time  was 
short.  We  left  that  same  evening-  on  the  train-de-luxe  for 
Marseilles.  This  train  is  especially  crowded  at  this  season  of 
the  year — people  going  to  the  Rixierc  in  the  South  of  France 


OUR  HOLIDAN'   i.\   A 1- RICA 


OUTWARD  BOUND 

for  the  season.  Next  morning  we  arrived  at  the  grey  old  city 
of  Marseilles,  with  its  very  narrow  streets  and  high  grey  build- 
ings. In  the  midst  of  this  city  is  a  rocky  piomontory,  on  which 
is  built  a  church.  From  there  one  gets  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  city  and  harbor.  In  this  harbor  are  ships  coming  and  go- 
ing to  all  parts  of  the  world. 

We  rather  dreaded  seeing  the  little  British  steamer  on 
which  our  se\'enteen  days  to  Mombasa  must  be  spent,  and  it 
was  Cjuite  discouraging  when  on  a  rain}-  day  we  had  our  first 
look.  It  was  so  pitifully  small  after  the  magnificent  Olympic 
of  recent  experience,  it  took  us  several  days  to  get  adjusted 
to  our  tiny  quarters,  but  e\ery  cloud  is  said  to  have  a  silver 
lining.  In  this  case  it  pro\-ed  almost  gold.  \\  e  have  never  en- 
jcjyed  a  sea  trip  more  than  that  spent  on  the  "Dunvegan  Castle." 
We  were  the  only  Americans  aboard  and  waited  for  our  En- 
glish cousins  to  make  the  advances,  which  they  did  most  gra- 
ciously. They  were  delightful  people — many  of  them,  as  we 
were,  taking  the  trip  for  pleasure.  Others  going  out  to  dif- 
ferent parts  of  British  Africa  to  visit  their  sons  and  daughters. 
Many  young  men  leaving  crowded  old  England  for  the  wild 
veldt  lands  of  Africa  to  make  their  fortune.  Others  who  had 
been  home  for  a  vacation,  rejoicing  in  going  back  to  the  wide 
free  country.  There  were  also  a  number  of  men  in  the  mili- 
tary service  v/ith  their  ])retty.  fresh  young  brides,  who  were 
looking  forward  with  great  enthusiasm  to  their  future  home. 

The  days  passed  rapidly,  even  though  the  Mediterranean 
was  rough  and  cold. 


Ol'R  HOKID.W   l.\"   A  I- RICA 


PORT  SAID 


Sailing  past  the  DeLessnp  Statue  just  as  the  sun  was 
setting-  glorionsh'  over  the  golden  sands  of  Egypt,  we  an- 
chored at  the  entrance  of  tlie  Suez  Canal.  Fehruary  9th.  1912. 
We  went  ashore  in  a  small  row  hoat  and  walked  ahout  the 
streets  to  see  the  shops,  which  were  filled  with  goods  from  the 
Orient.  This  is  the  meeting  place  of  the  Occident  and  Orient. 
The  streets  are  weh  policed,  which  relie\"ed  us  from  heing  an- 
noyed hy  the  insistance  of  the  shop  keepers. 

It  took  our  steamer  twenty-two  hours  to  get  through  the 
Canal,  as  we  were  side-tracked  iov  all  the  steamers  we  met. 
It  was  a  pleasant  experience,  as  we  dreamily  slipped  along. 
At  some  places  the  Canal  is  \evy  narrow,  and  again  widens 
into  two  big  lakes.  .\  unique  condition  exists  here.  The  ir- 
rigated land  of  the  Nile  comes  down  to  the  Canal  on  the  west 
side,  and  everything  is  l)eautiful  and  green.  The  other  side 
has  no  irrigation,  and  no  water,  and  the  whole  country  is  a 
sandy  desert. 

After  coaling  last  night  at  Port  Said,  our  captain  found 
he  could  not  start  the  steamer,  ^^d^ile  she  only  draws  twenty- 
five  feet  of  water,  yet  she  was  stuck  fast  on  a  sand  bar.  After 
two  hours  of  effort  the  captain  called  a  tug,  and  with  this 
assistance  we  were  floated  without  damage  to  the  vessel. 


RED  SEA 


After  getting  out  of  the  Canal,  going  South,  with  a  short 
stop  at  Suez,  we  sailed  through  an  arm  of  the  Red  Sea,  at 
least  one  hundred  miles  long  and  one  to  ten  miles  wide.  This 
is.  without  douht,  that  part  of  the  Red  Sea  where  the  Lord 
took  the  children  of  Israel  across  on  dry  land,  and  when  the 
Egyptian  armv  es.sayed  to   follow,   were  engulfed   in   the  re- 

II 


OL'R  H()IJI).\\-   IX   Al'RlCA 


PORT  SUDAN 

turning  waters.  We  were  in  sight  of  Alt.  Sinai  for  nearly  half 
a  day.  A  German  Baroness,  a  fellow  traveler,  tells  us  that 
she  had  heen  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Sinai  three  years  ago.  She 
says  there  are  steps  cut  in  the  rocks  in  places,  making  it  less 
difficult  to  ascend,  although  the  height  is  about  seven  thousand 
and  five  hundred  feet.  These  steps  were  cut  by  order  of  the 
Czar,  two  centuries  ago. 

The  Arabian  coast  is  bleak  and  l)arren  for  a  long  distance 
south  of  Alt.  Sinai.  We  are  not  surprised  that  the  children  of 
Israel  murmured  at  Moses  and  wanted  to  turn  back  to  Egypt. 
Arabia  is  still  a  barren  wilderness  and  an  army  of  six  hun- 
dred thousand  could  not  be  marched  through  that  country  now 
for  forty  years,  without  being  fed  l^y  the  Lord. 

As  soon  as  we  get  through  the  Suez  Canal,  it  may  be  said 
that  we  are  in  the  far  East.  The  people  are  Arabians,  Egyp- 
tians, East  Indians,  or  almost  any  other  nationality  except  the 
Chinese  or  Japanese.  While  the  ])orts  where  we  land  are  En- 
glish possessions,  there  arc  onl\-  a  few  Englishmen,  and  the 
spoken  language  may  be  Arabic  or  an}'  other  foreign  tongue, 
so  far  as  we  know,  as  we  do  not  understand  a  word  of  it. 

After  two  days  sail  on  the  calm  Red  Sea,  which  is  always 
warm  enough  and  usually  much  too  h()t  for  comfort,  we  ar- 
ri\-ed  at  Port  Sudan. 


PORT  SCDAX 


Se\eral  of  our  most  ])lcasant  and  agreeable  passengers 
are  lea\-ing  us  at  this  place,  on  their  way  to  Khartum,  by  rail. 
1diis  is  the  onl\-  ])ort  on  the  western  side  of  the  Red  Sea  of  any 
importance,  and  maw  at  some  time,  be  a  i)lace  of  much  ship- 
])ing.  Since  the  English  ha\e  made  their  army  headquarters 
at  Khartum  the\"  ha\'e  for  their  convenience  built  a  railway 
from    I'ort    .Sudan   to    IJerber  on    the   Xile.      This   will   enable 

13 


Ol-R  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


OLR  HOLIDAY   IX  AFRICA 


PORT  SUDAN 

them  to  transport  their  supplies  with  a  railway  haul  of  about 
two  or  three  hundred  miles  from  the  Sea.  Otherwise  they 
would  have  to  transport  by  rail  from  Alexandria,  Egypt,  for 
about  a  thousand  miles. 

The  English  have  spent  a  large  amount  of  money  at  Port 
Sudan,  building  a  break-water,  dredging  out  the  harbor  and 
building  substantial  stone  docks  and  warehouses.  There  is 
a  coaling  station  here  with  great  quantities  of  coal  stored.  The 
finest  and  best  o\'er-head  tramwa}-  that  we  have  e\'er  seen  for 
handling  coal  from  ships  to  the  various  parts  of  the  yard. 
There  are  railway  tracks  all  along  the  extensive  clocks  with 
heavy  power  cranes  for  loading  and  unloading  all  kinds  of 
merchandise.  Idie  town  is  only  six  years  old  and  has  made  a 
start  toward  making  a  city,  having  large  stone  buildings  used 
for  court  houses,  churches,  hotels  and  railway  offices.  The 
residences  are  of  wood,  raised  several  feet  above  the  ground, 
with  wide  porches  screened  to  protect  from  flies  (which  are 
very  bad  here)  and  the  roofs  built  with  an  open  air  space  for 
circulation,  which  makes  them  ideal  for  a  tropical  climate. 
However,  Avith  all  this  building  there  is  not  much  business,  the 
only  thing  we  saw  on  the  dock  for  export  was  peanuts.  At 
some  time  in  the  future  another  dam  may  be  built  on  the  Xile 
below  Khartum,  making  the  water  available  for  irrigation  on 
the  land  along  this  new  railway.  In  that  case  Port  Sudan  will 
be  an  important  city.  This  would  be  a  very  important  coaling" 
station  for  England,  if  in  time  of  war,  the  Suez  Canal  should 
be  blockaded.  Such  a  condition  is  remote,  but  the  English- 
man is  always  getting  ready  for  war,  and  tliat  no  doul:)t  pre- 
vents it. 

The  Red  Sea  is  a  great  highway  for  steamers  l)et\veen  the 
far  East  and  Europe.  We  have  passed  fifteen  today.  For 
two  h(>urs  we  were  in  water  that  was  a  bright  red  brick  col(n\ 
Probal)l}'  this  is  the  reason  for  the  name  of  Red  Sea.  We 
passefl  quite  close  to  an  Italian  man-of-war,  e\'idently  looking 
for  Turkish  \-cssels.  The  Italians  have  blockaded  several 
ports  on  the  Arabian  side. 

17 


ULR   llUiJDA\'    l.\   Al'KKA 


MAIN  STREET— ADEN. 


ADEN 


On  dropping  the  anchor  at  Aden  at  eight  o'clock  in  the 
evening  we  were  surrounded  by  a  swarm  of  native  boats,  each 
liaving  a  lantern,  making  rather  a  weird  scene,  as  the  night 
was  very  dark.  The  nati\e  traders  came  aboard  to  sell  their 
oriental  stuff.     It  is  very  amusing  to  see  people  bargaining. 

Aden  is  an  English  port,  so  situated  as  to  command  the 
channel  and  stop  any  vessel  the}'  choose.  Almost  no  rain  falls, 
and  the  drinking  \\ater  is  brought  here  and  peddled  through 
the  city  by  Arabs  driving  camels  hitched  to  small  wagons. 
There  are  some  large  concrete  tanks  near  the  city,  which  if 
filled,  would  enal)le  the  i)lace  to  stand  a  long  siege.  It  is  such 
a  God-forsaken  place  tliat  the  English  soldiers  are  glad  to  be 
transferred  to  some  other  port  as  soon  as  possible.  The  next 
morning,  after  lea\ing  Aden,  we  noticed  an  Italian  l)attleship 
about  two  miles  off  our  port  side,  and  with  glasses  could  see 
that  she  had  boarded  a  small  Arabian  vessel.  Evidently  was 
suspicious  of  the  cargo  and  halted  her  for  examination. 

Our  steamer  did  not  stop  to  make  incjuiries.  as  it  was 
none  of  our  business  what  was  being  done.  If  the  Italian  bat- 
tle shi])s  seirch  e\'er_\'  suspicious  looking  craft  passing  through 
these  waters,  with  a  \iew  of  preventing  Turkev  from  getting 
arms  and  ammunition  for  their  army  at  Tripoli,  we  shall  not 
interfere. 

On  February  16.  1912,  early  in  the  morning,  we  rounded 
Cape  Guardafui,  the  m  )st  eastern  point  of  Africa,  and  will  now 
sail  along  the  eastern  coast  about  fifteen  hundred  miles  to 
IMombasa.  The  Indian  Ocean  has  the  calm,  unruffled  look  of 
the  tropical  seas,  with  not  enough  wind  to  cause  the  slightest 
motion  of  our  vessel.  The  weather  is  certainly  hot,  but  mak- 
ing headway  stirs  u])  a  little  breeze  that  makes  it  comfortable 
when  on  deck. 


19 


OLK  liULiDAV  iX  Al-RICA 


MOMBASA 


The  East  African  Coast  has  been  known  to  ancient  geog- 
raphers for  centuries  before  the  Christian  Era.  Marco  Polo, 
the  famous  Venetian  traveler,  visited  Mombasa,  but  it  was 
Vasco  Da  Gama  that  took  Mombasa  in  1498  for  the  Portu- 
guese. At  one  time  a  l\n'kish  corsair  built  a  fort  at  the  end 
of  Mombasa  Island,  which  faces  the  sea. 

Today  the  old  fort  is  covered  with  xines  and  \'ery  pict- 
urescjue.  At  the  summit  of  the  fort  one  sees  the  double  en- 
trance to  the  ^himliasa  harbor. 

\  ery  beautifull}'  situated  is  this  ancient  African  city.  It 
is  on  a  small  island,  at  present  connected  with  the  main  land  by 
a  steel  railroad  bridge  se\'enteen  hundred  feet  long. 

Mombasa,  in  her  early  career,  was  the  scene  of  many 
bloody  battles  and  long  sieges.  It  was  captured  by  the  Portu- 
guese four  hundred  years  ago,  and  their  old  fortress  built  of 
stone,  is  still  solid  and  strong  and  is  now  used  as  a  jail  for 
native  prisoners  by  the  English.  The  town  lies  on  the  east 
side  of  the  island  and  along  its  front  is  the  old  ^Mombasa  har- 
bor, filled  with  native  Dhows,  or  small  .sailing  vessels,  with 
high  stern  and  prow,  reminding  us  of  the  st}]e  of  ships  used 
by  Columbus  wlien  he  disco\-ered  America.  These  small  sail- 
ing craft  still  do  most  of  the  business  along  this  coast.  Some 
of  them  ex'en  sailing  as  far  as  India,  carrying  produce.  This 
old  harbor  is  also  u.sed  bv  small  steamers,  as  the  custom  house 
is  located  here,  but  the  larger  vessels,  which  draw  more  than 
twentv  feet  of  water,  anchor  in  the  new  harbor  called  Klinin- 
dini.  On  the  west  side  of  the  island,  at  this  latter  harbor, 
most  of  the  material  for  the  army  and  the  L'ganda  Railway  is 
unloaded.  There  are  good  docks  ;ind  hea\'}-  steam  cranes  for 
conx'enience  in  loading  and  unloading  vessels. 

When  the  English  took  charge  of  this  country  they  forced 
the  Sultan  to  abolish  sla\ery.     We  are  told  by  the  residents 

21 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


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OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


X^-7 


MOMBASA 

that  in  slavery  times  agriculture  was  carried  un  much  mure  ex- 
tensively than  at  present.  In  those  days  when  the  nati\es  were 
compelled  to  work,  mealies,  or  corn,  was  actually  exported 
from  Mombasa  to  Xew  York,  but  now  the  natives  will  not 
w^ork  and  the  fields  are  overgrown  by  weeds.  At  present  the 
exports  from  this  point  are  ivory  and  hides.  However,  if 
cotton  and  coffee  growing  is  greatly  increased,  as  the  En- 
glish anticipate,  Mombasa  may  at  some  future  time,  become  an 
important  exporting  place. 

The  modern  town  of  Mombasa  is  a  \'ery  prettv  place. 
The  old  Arab  and  nati\'e  quarter  extends  inland.  The  center 
portion  of  the  town  are  shops  and  government  offices,  and  on 
the  high  ground  facing  the  Indian  Ocean  are  built  the  bunga- 
lows of  the  government  officials  and  Europeans.  These  resi- 
dences are  surrounded  by  gardens  wdth  beautiful  blooming 
oleanders  and  other  shrubs.  Being  only  four  degrees  south 
of  the  equator,  it  has  the  re])utation  of  being  one  of  the  hottest 
places  on  earth,  and  we  think  that  it  has  justly  earned  that 
reputation.  There  is  an  ice  manufacturing  plant  here,  and 
they  sell  it  at  the  rate  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  a  ton. 
How  some  of  our  American  artesian  ice  companies  would  like 
to  get  at  this  ice  market  for  al)out  one  season.  The  main  trr)u- 
ble  is,  that  there  are  so  few  whites  in  Mombasa,  that  the  de- 
mand is  small,  and  a  ten-pound  chunk  would  be  a  large  quan- 
tity for  a  hotel  to  buy.  Once  the  proprietor  of  the  Metropole 
Hotel  of  Mombasa  ga^'e  me  a  piece  of  ice  about  the  size  of  a 
silver  dollar,  in  a  glass  of  water. 

The  cit}'  has  a  uni(|ue  trolle}'  car  s}'stem,  \-er\'  light  rails 
with  two  feet  gauge;  the  cars  ha\-e  a  small  platform  with  a 
seat  for  four  i)e(4:)le  and  a  canopy  o\'erhead,  and  pushed  by 
two  nati\es.  This  will  serve  to  illustrate  how  cheap  laljor  is 
in  this  ])art  of  the  world.  It  is  more  profita1)le  to  run  small 
cars  by  man  power  than  any  other  way.  Nearly  e\'er}-  house- 
holder here  owns  their  little  trolley  car  and  have  a  i:>rivate 
switch  track  running  into  their  own  grounds.     This  makes  a 

25 


Ol'R  HOLIDAY  1 X  AFRICA 


UGANDA  RAILWAY 

very  convenient  way  of  getting  about,  as  the  tracks  are  laid 
in  nearly  all  these  streets. 

The  Calibash,  or  Baobab  tree  is  also  one  of  the  things 
peculiar  to  Ahimbasa.  It  has  an  immense  trunk,  frequently 
ten  or  twelve  feet  in  <liameter.  This  huge  Ijulk  of  trunk  grows 
not  more  than  twent}--five  feet  high  with  man}-  thick,  heavy 
branches,  and  scarcely  any  leaves,  and  has  a  scarlet  blossom. 

One  afternoon  about  five  o'clock,  when  the  intense  heat 
had  subsided,  we  took  a  trolley  car  to  the  custom's  wharf. 
After  some  dickering,  the  native  boatsman  agreed  on  the 
price,  two  rupees,  to  take  us  two  miles  across  the  bay  to  Frere- 
town,  where  the  Reverand  Doctor  Binns.  has.  for  nearly  forty 
years,  conducted  a  church  mission  and  school. 

They  have  a  church  building  of  stone,  and  other  buildings 
for  different  scho()l  grades,  also  where  carpentry  and  differ- 
ent trades  are  taught,  all  together  making  quite  a  town  in  a 
pleasant,  shady,  cocoanut  grove. 

Dr.  Binns'  life  has  been  spent  here.  He  is  an  old  man 
but  still  hale  and  hearty,  and  good  for  years  of  service  in  this 
great  cause. 


UGANDA  RAILWAY 

The  Uganda  Railway  starts  from  Mombasa  and  runs  five 
hundred  and  eighty-four  miles  to  Victoria  Nyanza.  This  line 
was  built  by  the  English  (iovernment  at  the  cost  of  twenty-two 
million  dollars,  and  com])leted  ten  years  ago.  The  gauge  is 
four  feet  with  good  heavy  rails  and  iron  ties,  the  track  well 
graded  and  ballasted.  The  rolling"  stock  is  small  light  cars, 
but  those  used  for  freight  are  built  of  iron  throughout. 

The  passenger  coaches  are  small  compartment  cars,  the 
compartments  seating  four  persons  each,  and  having  a  shelf 
that  lets  down  to  form  a  sleeping  berth.     The  passengers  must 

27 


OUR  HOLTD.\^'  TX  A1<RTCA 


UGANDA  RAILWAY 

furnish  their  own  bed  clothing  and  towels,  and  there  are  no 
porters  to  make  up  the  beds  or  roll  up  the  bed  clothing  in  the 
morning.  Many  passengers  take  a  native  servant  along  to  do 
this  work. 

The  engines  used  on  this  road  were  built  by  the  Baldwin 
Locomotive  Works  of  New  Jersey,  and  the  iron  bridges,  which 
are  very  few,  were  built  by  an  American  company.  The  ob- 
stacles in  Ijuilding  this  line  were  great,  not  the  least  of  which 
were  the  "white  ants,"  wdiich  eat  almost  everything,  including 
railway  ties.  At  the  time  the  railroad  was  building  the  lions, 
leopards  and  buffalos  were  very  troublesome.  At  Tsavo  Sta- 
tion, there  were  twenty-eight  natives  carried  away  and  eaten  by 
the  lions,  all  of  which  demoralized  the  working  force  to  such 
an  extent  that  they  deserted  the  work  at  this  pciint.  At  last 
the  manager.  Colonel  Patterson,  Imilt  a  cage  for  himself  and 
watched  for  the  lions  at  night  until  he  killed  the  two  ferocious 
animals,  and  then  the  natives  resumed  their  work.  .Mso  the 
annoyance  was  great  from  the  natives  who  insisted  on  stealing" 
the  telegraph  wire.  They  wished  to  use  it  as  bracelets  for 
their  arms  and  legs.  The  railroad  officers  warned  the  Chief 
of  the  tribes  that  thev  must  let  the  wires  alone,  but  the  tempta- 
tion was  so  great  that  the  stealing  continued  until  war  was  de- 
clared an<l  some  lives  lost. 

There  is  no  coal  in  this  part  of  Africa  and  the  locomotive 
burns  wood.  The  engineers  on  these  trains  are  East  Indians, 
who  have  proved  themselves  to  be  very  good  men  in  the  rail- 
way service.  The  officers  of  the  road,  of  course,  are  mostly 
Englishmen.  The  station  masters,  or  clerks,  are  usually  East 
Indians  and  are  quite  accommodating.  To  illustrate,  an  En- 
glish passenger  on  our  train  had  a  small  dog  which  he  was 
taking  along,  and  just  as  the  train  started  from  one  of  the 
country  stations  the  dog  saw  a  flock  of  goats  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  distant,  and  instead  of  jumping  on  the  train  with  his  ma.s- 
ter,  he  took  a  run  for  the  goats.  The  Englishman  shouted  to 
the  engineer  to  "wait  a  minute,"  and  off  he  went  with  his  na- 

29 


OLR  HOLIDAY   L\  AFRICA 


UGANDA  RAILWAY 

tive  servant  after  the  "blooming  little  clog."  who  chased  the 
goats  and  was  brought  back  and  put  on  the  train,  and  then  the 
train  started. 

In  connection  \\ith  the  Uganda  Railway  the  government 
runs  a  line  of  steamers  on  Victoria  Xyanza.  There  are  five 
of  these  steamers  at  present  on  this  lake,  and  each  of  them  were 
built  and  set  up  complete  in  England,  then  were  taken  to  pieces 
and  each  piece  numbered  and  shipped  by  water  to  Mombasa, 
then  by  rail  over  the  Uganda  Railway  to  the  lake,  wdiere  they 
were  put  together  again,  all  of  which  was  quite  an  undertaking. 
The  first  steamer,  however,  was  br(jught  out  before  the  rail- 
way was  built,  and  all  of  the  pieces  were  carried  on  the  heads 
of  natives  from  ?\lombasa  to  the  lake.  Many  of  the  pieces 
were  thrown  away  by  the  natives  and  had  to  be  replaced.  It 
took  eight  years  getting  this  first  steamer  in  running  order. 
This  railwa}'  and  tliese  steamboats  were  put  in  service  l)y  the 
English  grnernment.  not  as  a  paying  investment,  but  because 
it  was  necessary  to  hold  this  country  for  England.  They  have 
so  developed  the  country  that  the  traffic  now  pays  the  running 
expenses,  and  a  fair  profit  on  the  investment. 

The  transportation  to  Victoria  Nyanza  from  the  coast  was 
almost  impossible  before  the  railway  was  built.  Everything 
was  carried  six  hundred  miles  by  the  natives  and  the  actual 
cost  was  one  thousand  dollars  per  ton. 

On  leaving  Mombasa  for  the  interior  by  rail,  the  first  few 
miles  of  the  country  have  been  improved  by  the  planters  and 
looked  very  well,  but  after  that  the  soil  is  poor  and  rough  with 
only  the  thorny  acacia  shrul)  and  sharp  spiked  aloes.  Then 
we  come  to  the  plains  with  the  long  grass  where  white  jjcople 
can  live  and  farm.  1'his  section,  on  both  sides  of  the  track, 
is  set  apart  by  the  goxernment  as  a  game  reser\-ation.  and  here 
is  to  l)e  seen  more  game  than  in  an_\-  other  part  of  the  world. 
These  animals  \ery  soon  learn  that  tlie\'  are  not  molested  and 
l)ecome  quite  tanx'.  Many  of  them  grazing  near  the  track  do 
not  run  away  when  the  train  a])proaches.  while  others  run  a 
few  wards  and  sto])  with  he;ids  u]).      In  a  half  a  d;i\"  we  saw 


OUR  HOLIDAY   IX  Al-RICA 


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UGANDA  RAILWAY 

at  least  a  thousand  head  of  game,  most  of  which  were  of  the 
antelope  family.  There  were  beautiful  little  Thomson  ga- 
zells,  and  still  more  beautiful  Grant's  gazells,  with  a  broad 
black  strip  along  each  side.  The  big  wielde  beast,  called  "gnu" 
in  the  old  geographies,  looks  much  like  the  wild  buffalo,  and 
some  of  them  weigh  seven  hundred  pounds  or  more.  We  also 
saw  many  zebra,  eland  and  great  numbers  of  ostriches,  im- 
mense birds,  almost  as  large  as  horses,  all  grazing  peacefully 
together.  We  were  disappointed  that  we  did  not  see  giraffe; 
they  had  not  come  down  from  the  high  pastures.  We  did  not 
see  any  lions  or  leopards,  as  they  usually  skulk  along  in  ra- 
vines and  high  grass.  There  are  many  lions  through  this 
game  reservation,  and  recently  a  passenger  saw  nine  in  one 
bunch  from  a  car  window\  We  w^ere  detained  four  hours  by  a 
wash-out  near  Athi  River  Station,  and  only  last  week  a  hunter 
found  three  lions  not  more  than  three  himdred  yards  from 
this  station.     He  followed  them  and  killed  two. 

^^'hen  the  road  was  first  built  the  lions  were  much  more 
troublesome  than  they  are  now.  At  that  time  a  lion  went 
prowling  around  one  of  the  stations  in  daylight  and  drove  all 
the  employees  into  the  telegraph  office,  where  they  barricaded 
the  doors.  The  operator  then  wired  the  next  station,  "Don't 
let  number  four  stop  here,  a  lion  is  sitting  on  the  platform." 
Recently  two  hunters  were  about  to  camp  beside  the  road 
for  the  night,  when  a  man  with  an  ox  team  passing  told  them 
he  had  seen  two  lions  near  the  road  about  a  half  mile  back. 
One  of  the  hunters  said,  "I  am  going  to  see  if  I  can  get  a  shot 
at  them."  The  other  said,  "It  is  getting  too  late."  Neverthe- 
less, the  first  man  went  to  look  for  them  alone.  He  soon  saw 
them  about  one  hundred  yards  distant;  taking  aim,  fired, 
wounding  the  female ;  another  shot,  and  he  missed  her.  By  this 
time  the  Lioness  was  upon  him.  The  horse  was  paralyzed  with 
fear  and  would  not  move.  The  lioness  pulled  the  hunter  off 
his  horse;  the  man  rammed  his  left  arm  into  her  throat,  and 
the  unequal  fight  began.  Fortunately,  another  ox  team  hap- 
pened along.    The  driver  had  no  gun,  but  he  ran  to  the  hunter's 

33 


OUR  HOLID.W   1\   Al'KICA 


UGANDA  RAILWAY 

assistance,  with  his  long  whip  dealt  the  lioness  a  few  heavy 
blows,  which  caused  her  to  give  up  the  fight  and  run  off.  The 
hunter  was  so  badly  lacerated  that  he  died  a  few  da}-s  after- 
ward. 

Alajor  Gordon,  a  retired  army  officer,  who  came  back  on 
the  ship  with  us  from  Cape  Town,  owns  a  large  cattle  ranch 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  north  of  Victoria  Falls  in  Rho- 
desia, not  far  from  the  Congo  line.  Usually  he  rounds  his  cat- 
tle up  in  a  paddock  at  night,  to  avoid  trouble  with  lions  and 
leopards.  Recently  six  lions  raided  his  cattle  paddock. 
Something  had  to  be  done  to  drive  the  ugly  beasts  away.  Ac- 
cordingly he  started  out  on  horseback  the  next  day  to  hunt 
them.  A  few  hours  later  he  came  in  sight  of  five  lions  in  one 
l)unch.  One  was  a  tremendous  big  fellow  with  a  black,  shaggy 
mane.  The  Alajor  immediately  decided  to  get  this  big  one, 
the  leader  of  the  gang,  if  possible.  WHiile  the  lion  was  leis- 
urely making  his  way  toward  a  bunch  of  brush,  the  ]\Iajor 
made  a  circuit  and  intercepted  him.  As  soon  as  the  linn  saw 
him,  he  charged  for  horse  and  rider.  The  critical  time  had 
come.  The  Major  held  his  gun  as  steadv  as  possible,  as  his 
horse  was  ^■ery  restless,  and  when  the  lion  was  about  five 
yards  distant,  fired  from  the  horse's  back.  Extraordinary  as 
it  seems,  the  shot  went  true  and  entered  the  head  about  an 
inch  below  the  eye,  and  killed  the  lion.  The  ]\Iajor  had  the 
skin  with  him  and  exhibited  it  to  us.  It  was  the  largest  lion 
skin  we  have  ever  seen,  ten  feet  from  tip  of  nose  to  tip  of  tail — 
a  great  trophy. 


35 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


NAIROBI 


Nairobi  is  the  capital  of  British  East  Africa  and  is  a  rap- 
idly growing  town  made  by  the  railway.  It  is  situated  on  a 
level  plain,  five  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  almost  under 
the  equator.  It  has  a  population  of  one  thousand  whites  and 
fifteen  thousand  blacks.  The  business  buildings  are  located 
on  what  is  called  "Government  Road,"  which  is  about  a  mile 
and  one-half  long,  well  paved  and  has  a  row  of  Eucalyptus 
trees  on  each  side.  It  is  most  picturesque  with  its  swarming 
humanity.  One  sees  natives  representing  all  the  different  tribes 
of  East  Africa  in  their  state  of  dress  and  undress,  loaded  down 
with  beads,  copper  wire  bracelets,  anklets,  shields  and  spears. 
On  this  street  are  the  outfitters  for  the  hunters,  and  it  is  here 
that  the  natives  are  hired  as  porters,  to  carry  the  camping  out- 
fit. There  are  very  few  horses  and  mules  here  and  the  usual 
mode  of  conveyance  is  by  Rickshaw.  These  are  not  so  light 
and  easy  running  as  those  in  Japan,  but  have  heavy  wheels  and 
carry  two  persons,  with  two  natives  to  push  and  one  to  pull. 
The  nights  are  rather  cold,  but  the  midday  sun  is  very  hot.  To 
us,  after  one  day  out  of  the  sweltering  heat  of  Mombasa,  it 
seemed  delightful.  If  we  were  to  select  this  part  of  the  world 
as  a  permanent  place  of  residence,  which  we  do  not  anticipate, 
we  should  certainly  live  in  Nairobi.  The  courts  and  other  gov- 
ernment business  is  now  transacted  in  one-story  sheet  iron 
houses,  but  this  will  all  be  changed  in  a  few  years.  Some  beau- 
tiful bungalows  have  been  built  in  the  suburbs,  with  handsome 
gardens. 

The  growing  of  fruits  has  not  yet  progressed  far  enough 
to  decide  what  is  best  suited  to  this  climate,  but  most  tropical 
fruits  will  do  well.  Corn  and  wheat  are  raised  in  this  section 
in  a  small  way. 

Nairobi  is  a  great  center  for  big  game  hunting,  and  most 
of  the  hunting  parties,  or  Safari,  as  they  are  called  in  this  coun- 
try, are  made  up  here.     If  you  were  to  come  out  to  Africa  to 

37 


OLR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


NAIROBI 

hunt  or  to  "shoot,"  as  they  say,  you  would  come  to  this  place 
and  hire  one  hundred  porters  to  carry  your  camping  outfit. 
Also  gun  bearers  and  cooks.  To  each  porter  you  would  have 
to  give  a  blanket.  Then  go  marching  to  those  places  where  it 
is  reported  plenty  of  game  is  to  be  found.  First  you  must  get 
a  hunter's  license,  which  will  cost  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars 
and  allows  you  to  hunt  outside  of  the  game  reservations,  for 
one  year,  and  limits  you  to  two  elephants,  twenty  zebras,  two 
buffalos  and  no  giraffe,  and  many  other  variety  of  animals, 
limited  to  two ;  and  you  may  kill  as  many  lions  and  leopards 
as  you  can.  After  you  have  made  all  preparations  you  are 
still  not  sure  of  success.  A  hunter  with  a  friend  had  been  out 
for  some  time  with  a  large  number  of  porters,  and  all  things 
needed,  and  had  really  gotten  almost  nothing.  They  saw  three 
herds  of  elephants  and  were  near  enough  to  photograph  them, 
but  did  not  kill  any.  It  is  not  encouraging  when  it  is  raining 
every  day  and  one  is  tramping  through  the  wet  grass  and  sleep- 
ing in  a  wet  camp,  to  get  no  game.  On  the  other  hand,  we 
were  informed  that  recently  Mr.  Paul  J.  Rainey.  an  Americnn 
hunter,  brought  with  him  a  pack  of  hounds,  and  with  their  as- 
sistance, killed  sixty  lions  in  a  few  weeks.  Lion  skins  of  good 
quality  sell  here  for  fifty  dollars  each. 

^\'e  left  Nairolji  for  Uganda  on  February  24,  1912,  and 
found  the  railway  trip  most  interesting.  Anticipating  a  cold 
night,  we  took  a  large  roll  of  blankets  and  wraps,  all  of  which 
we  used  and  were  still  uncomfortably  cold,  although  just  under 
the  equator.  There  are  a  good  many  white  settlers  on  farms 
along  this  part  of  the  road.  In  fact,  more  farming  is  done 
on  this  northwestern  end  of  the  road  than  we  have  seen  else- 
where. We  crossed  the  great  Rift  Valley  in  daylight.  This  is 
a  crack  in  the  earth's  surface,  two  thousand  feet  deep,  and 
from  one  to  twenty  miles  wide.  It  is  said  to  be  two  thousand 
miles  long,  running  nortli  and  south  through  the  central  part 
of  the  continent.  It  is  a  very  extraordinary  freak  of  nature, 
supposed  to  be  caused  by  the  earth's  cooling.     Idiere  are  sev- 

39 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


NAIROBI 

eral  lakes  along  different  places  in  this  valley,  some  of  them 
sweet  and  others  salt.  The  land  lies  in  fine  shape  for  farming 
in  this  Rift  Valley  and  is  nearly  all  fenced  up.  It  is  used  as 
grazing  land  for  cattle  and  sheep,  as  the  rains  are  too  uncertain 
for  agriculture.  Often  no  rain  falls  in  this  valley  for  four 
months. 


VICTORIA  NYANZA 

We  reached  Port  Florence  on  Victoria  Nyanza  early  in 
the  morning  and  at  once  went  aboard  the  steamer  "Sir  Clement 
Hill" — carrying  capacity,  two  hundred  and  fifty  tons;  length, 
two  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  for  a  six  days  sail,  on  this,  the 
greatest  body  of  fresh  water  in  the  world — area,  32,165  square 
miles;  Lake  Superior  being  next  with  an  area  of  31,750  square 
miles.  This  lake  is  the  source  of  the  Nile,  for  thousands  of 
years  hidden  from  the  sight  of  white  man,  and  only  discovered 
about  fifty  years  ago  by  the  explorer  Speke.  It  is  three  thou- 
sand six  hundred  feet  above  sea  level.  Over  the  Ripon  Falls, 
it  pours  out  its  tremendous  volume  of  water  to  feed  the  desert 
lands  along  this  great  river  for  three  thousand  miles  to  the 
Mediterranean.  This  is  where  the  fatal  sleeping  sickness  has 
carried  off  two  hundred  thousand  natives  in  ten  years.  After 
investigation,  it  has  been  decided  by  the  scientific  men  that  this 
sleeping  sickness  is  caused  by  the  bite  of  the  Tsetse  Fly,  which 
infest  the  many  islands  and  shores  of  this  great  lake.  Ac- 
cordingly, the  English  government  has,  by  force,  removed  t'ne 
natives  two  miles  back  from  the  lake  shore,  and  taken  them  en- 
tirely off  the  islands.  It  is  supposed  that  this  wholesale  remov- 
al has  saved  the  lives  of  the  remainder  of  the  Baganda  Tribe, 

41 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


VICTORIA  NYANZA 

who  inhabit  this  region.  They  could  not  understand  the  reason 
for  tlieir  removal  and  continued  to  run  back  to  the  islands  until 
finally  the  government  officials  were  compelled  to  burn  their 
boats.  These  shores  and  islands  are  covered  with  beautiful 
trees,  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  looked  very  inviting  as  w'e 
passed  along.  There  are  hundreds  of  these  islands  in  the  lake, 
some  of  them  quite  large,  and  nearly  all  have  been  inhaljited. 
The  adjacent  shores,  where  the  towns  are  situated  and  where 
our  landings  were  made,  have  been  cleared  of  jungle.  All  trees 
near  the  water  have  been  cut  down,  and  the  Tsetse  Fly  is  not 
doing  as  great  havoc  as  formerly.  The  Tsetse  Fly  will  not 
live  except  in  deep  shade  and  near  the  water.  The  moscjuitoes 
are  also  very  troublesome  on  this  lake,  and  particularly  on  the 
shallow  shores  at  the  landing  places. 

When  we  anchored  for  the  night  we  were  extraordinarilv 
careful  to  use  good  mosquito  net  at  night  and  ha\e  it  well 
tucked  in.  The  equator  crosses  this  lake  near  the  ncjrth  shore 
and  the  line  dividing  the  British  and  (lerman  territory,  passes 
nearly  through  the  middle  of  the  lake.  The  southern  part  of 
the  lake  belongs  to  Germany.  There  are  several  small  tov/ns 
along  their  shores. 


43 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


UGANDA 


Our  first  stop  was  at  Entebbe,  the  residence  capital  of 
Uganda.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  hills  rising  from  the 
lake  and  it  is  there  that  the  Governor  and  officials  live.  The 
government  house  is  on  the  highest  point,  surrounded  by  lovely 
gardens.  The  many  bungalows  are  very  attractive,  with  the 
settings  of  their  gardens  of  tropical  flowers  and  overlooking 
the  lake.  The  English  take  the  greatest  interest  in  their  gar- 
dens, both  flower  and  vegetable.  On  the  steamer  we  met  a 
government  official  and  his  family,  who  lived  at  Entebbe. 
They  asked  us  to  dinner  at  their  home.  We  accepted  and  had 
a  delightful  time  and  an  excellent  dinner.  They  were  charm- 
ing and  agreeable,  and  their  bungalow  was  most  attractive. 
The  bungalow  is  built  of  brick  and  plastered  over.  The  floor, 
cement,  painted  a  brown  color  and  polished  like  hard  wood, 
which  keeps  out  all  insects.  The  furniture  is  covered  with 
chintz  in  bright  colors,  and  the  rugs  are  leopard  and  lion, 
or  any  other  skin  shot  by  the  host.  They  don't  buy  the  skins, 
but  shoot  the  game  themselves.  One  lady  hunter  said,  'T 
should  not  think  you  would  want  skins  you  did  not  shoot  for 
yourself."  Our  reply  was  that  we  would  certainly  never  have 
any  if  we  had  to  kill  the  beast.  She  seemed  surprised  at  the 
statement.  She  and  her  husband  and  son  have  been  out  for 
three  months  on  "Safari,"  but  the  son  was  taken  with  appen- 
dicitis in  the  bush.  Fortunately,  they  got  into  a  little  town 
where  there  were  two  doctors  who  pulled  him  through  with- 
out an  operation. 

From  Enteblje,  r)ur  next  stop  was  Kampala.  It  is  the 
headf|uarters  of  the  police,  or  as  we  would  call  it,  state  militia. 
The  business  is  done  by  East  Indians. 

Kampala  is  built  on  seven  hills.  The  soil  is  very  fertile; 
coffee,  cotton,  antl  some  rubber  is  raised,  and  bananas  every- 
where.    On  one  of  the  hills  the  native  King  of  Uganda  lives. 

45 


OUR  H()LI1).\^    l.\   AI'kICA 


UGANDA 

His  residence  is  enclosed  by  many  reed  fences.  On  another 
hill  is  the  mission  of  the  White  Fathers,  or  French  Catholics. 
On  another  is  the  church  of  England  Mission,  with  its  large 
three-steepled  cathedral  and  fine  hospital.  On  the  summit  of 
another  hill  is  Saint  Joseph,  or  Nsambya  Mission,  English 
Catholics.  This  is  the  one  we  visited,  as  we  wanted  to  see  a 
fine  coffee  plantation.  On  another  hill  is  the  government  of- 
ficial's residence,  and  the  old  fort  has  a  hill  to  itself. 

Kampala  is  situated  seven  miles  from  the  lake  on  a  good 
macadamized  road,  and  we  made  the  distance  by  Rickshaw  in 
one  hour.  The  four  natives  we  had  to  pull  and  push  our  Rich- 
shaw  were  good  strong  fellows  and  sang  nearly  all  the  way. 
We  were  told  they  were  singing  our  praises,  calling  me  the 
greatest  and  strongest  "Bwana"  (a  great  man)  that  ever  lived, 
and  Mrs.  Wheeler,  "the  beautiful  lady."  Apparently  they 
sang  this  same  verse  over  several  hundred  times. 

Uganda  country,  on  this  side  of  the  lake,  is  undulating  and 
beautiful.  Most  of  the  land  is  planted  with  bananas,  and  a 
small  part  with  sweet  potatoes.  The  banana  is  the  main  food 
of  the  pe.'iple  here.  It  ripens  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  so 
that  the  natives  have  it  ready  for  use  continually.  The  banana 
grows  about  three  times  as  large  as  those  we  get  in  America, 
and  the  quality  is  excellent.  There  are  many  varieties,  but 
they  must  be  cooked  before  they  are  fit  to  eat. 

W^e  were  advised  to  go  out  and  see  the  Catholic  Father's 
coffee  plantation  and  mission,  which  we  did,  and  they  treated 
us  most  cordially.  Father  Proctor  is  in  charge  and  took  us 
over  the  plantation  of  about  six  hundred  acres.  They  are  ex- 
tensively engaged  in  raising  bananas  and  coffee,  and  trying  to 
raise  cocoa,  but  have  not  made  much  headway  with  the  latter, 
as  yet.  The  coffee  trees  are  beautiful  and  promise  an  abundant 
harvest. 

47 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


UGANDA 

The  Sisters  have  a  school  with  over  three  hundred  black 
children  and  a  hospital  where  the  natives  are  treated.  The 
children  come  from  great  distances,  bringing  their  food,  living 
in  the  little  rest  houses  built  of  thatch,  from  Monday  until 
Friday,  and  then  return  to  their  native  village.  These  devoted 
Christian  workers  have  been  here  from  ten  to  fourteen  years, 
and  do  not  find  it  necessary  to  return  to  England  to  recuper- 
ate their  health.  This  leads  us  to  think  that  if  other  mission- 
aries, as  well  as  individuals,  in  the  service  of  the  government, 
were  as  careful  as  these  good  people,  it  would  not  be  necessary 
for  them  to  have  a  furlough  for  the  benefit  of  their  health. 

The  Mission  buildings  are  built  of  cement,  all  roofed  with 
thatch,  like  that  used  for  the  native  buildings  here.  It  makes 
a  waterproof  roof  and  much  cooler  than  any  other  kind. 

The  prevalence  of  wild  game  in  this  country  may  be  il- 
lustrated by  the  fact  that  the  good  Sisters  of  this  mission  have 
quite  recently  been  annoyed  by  the  nightly  visits  of  a  leopard, 
which  comes  into  the  compound  and  makes  much  noise  barking 
and  growling.  One  of  the  natives  has  been  trying  to  shoot  it 
with  a  bow  and  arrow.  They  are  not  allowed  to  have  guns 
of  any  kind,  and  the  leopard  still  makes  his  nightly  visits. 
There  are  many  elephants  and  buffaloes  in  Uganda.  They 
are  so  numerous  that  they  damage  the  crops.  No  doubt  the 
government  will  soon  give  permission  to  kill  as  many  as  they 
wish,  otherwise  the  farmers  will  be  driven  out  of  business. 

There  is  a  large  cotton  gin  in  Kampala,  which  is  doing  a 
good  business  at  present.  We  saw  seventeen  wagon  loads  of 
cotton  from  the  landing  to  the  gin.  These  wagons  are  all 
pulled  and  pushed  by  from  six  to  ten  native  men.  The  mer- 
chants here  are  East  Indians.  They  are  said  to  be  dishonest 
and  tricky  and  a  detriment  to  the  country,  l)ut  the  natives  have 
not,  as  yet,  developed  so  as  to  become  merchants.  These  East 
Indians  carry  in  their  little  shops  a  small  assortment  of  such 

49 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


UGANDA 

things  as  a  native  needs.  We  noticed  American  made  brown 
cotton  and  prints  in  their  stock.  These  American  made  goods 
are  preferred  to  any  other.  Their  stores  are  one  story  cor- 
rugated iron  shacks,  called  tin  houses.  There  are  only  a  few 
brick  buildings. 

Uganda  seems  to  be  well  adapted  to  raising  coffee  and 
cotton.  At  present  cotton  has  much  the  largest  acreage,  and 
every  steamer  that  crosses  the  lake  to  the  railway  is  loaded 
with  it.  The  prospects  are,  that  in  a  few  years,  this  will  be- 
come one  of  the  most  important  cotton  growing  countries  in 
the  world,  outside  of  the  United  States.  The  freights  are 
about  three  cents  a  pound  to  England,  but  the  labor  is  very 
cheap,  only  two  or  three  rupees  (a  dollar)  a  month. 

We  made  our  last  stop  at  Jinja,  before  returning  to  Port 
Florence.  The  point  of  interest  to  us  at  that  place  was  Ripon 
Falls,  the  source  of  the  Nile,  which  has  been  seen  by  only  a 
few  white  people.  The  actual  fall  is  not  more  than  thirty  feet 
at  the  dam  and  the  volume  of  water  does  not  compare  with 
our  Niagara  Falls.  The  lake  narrows  here  to  a  few  hundred 
yards.  The  magnificent  view  of  this  river,  stretching  away 
to  the  north  amid  enchanting  scenery,  is  most  impressive.  One 
can  well  imagine  how  elated  the  explorer  Speke  must  have 
felt  when,  after  enduring  countless  hardships,  he  at  last  looked 
upon  and  solved  one  of  the  great  mysteries  of  the  ancients, 
"the  source  of  the  Nile."  The  channel  where  this  fall  makes 
its  way  out  of  the  lake  has  abrupt  banks  about  one  hundred 
feet  high,  and  nature  has  built  a  rock  dam  across  this  channel, 
about  twelve  hundred  feet  long,  forty  feet  high  and  thirty 
feet  thick.  The  strata  of  rock  is  set  upon  the  edge,  and  at 
first  sight  looks  as  though  it  was  built  by  man.  It  is  so  reg- 
ular and  straight.  The  water  has  broken  through  this  natural 
dam  in  three  places.  At  present  there  is  not  much  need  of 
electric  power,  but  if  this  country  develops,  as  is  expected,  in 
a   few  years  a  great  electric  power  plant  will   no  doubt  be 

5^ 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


UGANDA 

erected,  and  abundant  power  furnished  for  all  purposes,  in  all 
directions  for  many  miles. 

There  is  a  newly  built  railroad  from  this  place,  Jinja, 
sixty-one  miles  down  the  Nile,  to  the  place  where  the  river 
becomes  navigable,  and  on  this  part  of  the  Nile  the  English 
government  has  a  small  steamer,  making  a  run  of  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The  engineer  of  this  steamer  came 
out  \Nith  us  on  the  Dunvegan  Castle,  after  being"  home  on  a 
furlough.  He  has  been  in  this  country  several  years  and  tells 
us  that  his  boat  has  more  cotton,  coffee  and  peanuts  than  it 
can  carry,  and  that  the  government  will  soon  put  on  another 
steamer.  Some  people  already  go  down  the  Nile  by  this  route 
via  Khartum  to  the  Mediterranean. 

In  order  to  do  this  one  would  take  the  railway  from  Jinja 
for  sixty-one  miles,  then  the  small  steamer  above  mentioned 
for  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  a  point  where  the 
Nile  is  too  rocky  and  swift  for  navigation.  Along  this  part 
of  the  river  for  three  hundred  miles  the  traveler  would  have 
to  walk,  or  to  be  carried  in  a  hammock.  The  walking  is  not 
very  good  in  this  section,  and  it  takes  about  thirty  days  to  do 
this.  The  water  is  scarce  and  the  heat  very  great.  The  flies, 
moscjuitoes,  elephants,  buffaloes,  rhinoceros,  hippottami,  lions, 
leopards,  antelopes  and  many  insects  abound  here.  After 
doing  the  w^alking,  the  river  steamers  and  railways  would  take 
one  through  Khartum  and  all  the  way  dow'u  the  Nile  to  the 
Mediterranean.  Every  year  there  are  parties  who  do  this  trip, 
and  some  of  them  women.  We  had,  before  leaving  home, 
thought  of  doing  this  trip,  and  wrote  to  Thomas  Cook  &  Son, 
of  London,  inquiring  about  it,  but  they  replied  that  on  account 
of  the  three  hundred  miles  of  walking,  it  was  not  practical. 

On  landing  at  Jinja  there  is  a  large  sign  reading  in  En- 
glish, "To  Ripon  Ealls."  We  took  a  Rickshaw,  propelled  by 
three  lusty  natives,  pointed  to  the  sign  board  and  told  them  to 

53 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


UGANDA 

take  us  to  the  falls.  They  started  in  the  right  direction,  and 
we  supposed  it  was  understood  where  we  wanted  to  go.  We 
had  been  told  it  was  only  about  fifteen  minutes'  walk.  Our 
Rickshaw  men  took  us  through  the  pretty  little  tin  town  of 
Jinja  and  out  in  the  country  on  a  well  graded  and  mecadam- 
ized  road,  through  fields  of  bananas,  which  were  in  a  fine 
state  of  cultivation,  and  every  few  hundred  yards  would  be 
found  a  small  native  village  nestling  among  the  banana  trees. 
One  peculiar  thing  about  all  these  natives  of  Central  Africa  is, 
that  they  build  their  huts  and  villages  as  far  as  possible  out  of 
sight,  so  that  one  might  travel  for  days  through  a  thickly  set- 
tled partion  of  Africa  and  see  almost  no  habitation.  Quite 
likely,  this  idea  of  building  their  huts  and  villages  in  secreted 
places  was  brought  about  by  the  continual  warfare  among  the 
tribes.  In  several  places  we  passed  one  hundred  or  more  na- 
tive men  resting  in  the  shade  of  large  trees.  They  had  car- 
ried cotton  from  the  country,  fifty  or  sixty  miles,  and  were 
now  returning  to  their  homes.  All  this  was  very  pretty  and 
interesting,  but  we  wanted  to  get  to  the  falls.  After  trotting 
along  about  an  hour  we  asked  the  leader  where  he  was  taking 
us.  He  pointed  ahead,  mumbling  his  language.  However, 
after  traveling  several  miles  more  we  decided  we  were  lost  in 
Uganda.  At  last,  we  made  our  Rickshaw  team  turn  back  to 
the  town  and  found  the  falls  beyond  the  hills,  in  another  direc- 
tion. It  was  after  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  we 
reached  the  falls,  and  taking  photographs  so  late  in  the  day  is 
not  usually  successful.  We  returned  to  the  steamer  and  are 
sailing  across  the  Victoria  Nyanza  to  Port  Florence  on  our 
w^ay  to  the  coast,  after  having  penetrated  into  the  "Heart  of 
Africa"  for  nearly  one  thousand  miles  from  the  sea. 

Our  little  steamer  has  been  quite  comfortable;  the  food 
better  than  we  anticipated,  and  we  have  greatly  enjoyed  the 
trip,  as  every  day  has  brought  something  new  and  strange,  and 
showed  us  the  manner  of  living  of  these  people  of  interior 
Africa. 

55 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  A 1- RICA 


NATIVES 

Toda}-,  we  noticed  on  the  horizon,  several  clouds,  which 
at  a  distance  resembled  clouds  of  smoke  arising"  from  forest 
fires.  The  captain  told  us  they  were  small  flies  or  lake  gnats. 
Sometimes  the  steamer  is  enveloped  by  these  clouds  and  they 
make  life  miserable  for  the  time  being,  as  they  get  into  every- 
thing. We  are  told  that  the  natives  eat  them,  but  they  eat  al- 
most anything. 

The  scenery  on  the  Uganda  railway  from  Victoria  Nyanza 
to  Nairobi  is  fine.  The  first  fifty  miles  after  leaving  the  lake 
the  railway  climbs  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  eight  thou- 
sand three  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  We  enjo3'ed  this  mag- 
nificent scenery  without  discomfort,  as  the  recent  rains  had 
laid  the  dust.  On  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  a  wide  plateau 
of  fine  undulating  farm  lands,  all  taken  up  by  white  settlers, 
and  many  beautiful  homes  are  to  be  seen.  This  is  almost  un- 
der the  equator,  but  with  the  high  altitude  the  air  is  bracing 
and  invigorating.  Almost  everything  that  grows  in  the  tem- 
perate zone  does  well  on  this  plateau. 


NATIVES 


We  will  tell  you  of  the  different  nati^•e  tribes  in  our 
"Heart  of  Africa"  trip.  The  Swahali  of  the  coast,  the  Massai, 
who  are  the  herders  of  cattle,  and  the  warlike  tribe,  the  Ki- 
kuyus.  who  work  in  the  fields,  and  the  Somalis,  who  are  the 
house  boys  and  giui  bearers,  and  the  Kovorondo,  that  wear  no 
clothing.  The  tribes  have  nothing  to  do  wdth  each  other,  and 
each  have  their  own  distinct  characteristics.  The  Baganda, 
in  Uganda,  are  more  ci\ilized  and  better  workers  than  any  of 
the  other  tribes.  The  older  Avomen  in  all  of  these  tribes  do 
most  of  the  work,  and  it  is  usually  well  done,  in  Uganda,  as 

57 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


KIKUYU  BELLE 
Notice  the  lobe  of  her  ear — over  two  inches  in  diameter. 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


NATIVE  KIKUYU  DANDY— Notice  the  ear  lobe  is  stretched  out  large 
enough    to  take  in  a  three-inch  block  of  wood. 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


KIKUYU    WOMAN    LOADED   BEYOND   HER    STRENGTH 
An   object  of  pity. 


NATIVES 

the  fields  of  bananas  and  sweet  potatoes  are  free  from  weeds. 
These  Uganda  natives  were  wearing  some  clothing  when  the 
wdiite  man  discovered  them.  One  of  the  characteristics  of  the 
Kikuyu  tribe  is  the  disfiguring  of  their  ears.  They  stretch 
the  lobe  of  the  ears  so  that  the  hole  will  take  in  a  small  fruit 
can  or  a  block  of  wood  three  inches  in  diameter,  and  they 
slit  the  rim  of  their  ears  and  put  in  three  sticks,  like  a  lead 
pencil,  through  the  upper  part  of  each  ear. 

To  add  to  the  general  effect,  they  take  red  earth,  mixed 
with  oil,  and  scrub  it  into  their  wool  and  smear  their  entire 
faces  and  bodies  with  it,  until  they  look  about  the  color  of  a 
chestnut  sorrel  colt.  Many  of  them  wear  strings  of  beads, 
and  a  piece  of  cotton  cloth  draped  over  one  shoulder  to  their 
knees.  The  Kovorondo,  located  on  the  east  side  of  Victoria 
Nyanza,  usually  wear  no  clothing  of  any  kind,  having  only 
coils  of  iron  and  brass  wire  around  their  legs  and  arms.  Both 
the  Samolis  and  Masai  have  fine  physical  appearance.  The 
Samoli  are  Mohammedans,  and  horsemen ;  the  Masai  are  cat- 
tle herders,  who  do  their  work,  as  they  did  their  fighting,  on 
foot,  and  are  a  very  martial  type.  These  tribes  are  much  like 
little  children,  who  hardly  know  right  from  wrong,  and  will 
follow  their  triljal  chief  and  do  as  he  commands.  As  a  gen- 
eral rule,  thev  have  very  little  conception  of  morality  or  hon- 
esty, until  taught  by  the  white  man.  They  have  very  little 
gratitude,  small  regard  for  their  children,  and  none  for  their 
jiarents  or  relatives  when  sick.  Sometimes  they  throw  their 
sick  relatives  out  of  their  huts  to  die,  and  leave  their  bodies  to 
be  devoured  by  wild  animals.  Still  more  horrible  to  relate, 
after  death  from  sickness  or  other  cause,  some  of  them  cook 
and  eat  their  own  relatives.  They  have  no  conception  of  God, 
unless  their  regard  for  witchcraft  should  be  so  considered. 
They  do  not  worship  idols,  or  have  any  other  form  of  worship. 

There  are  manv  self-sacrificing  missionaries  in  this  coun- 
try, trying  to  teach  and  elevate  these  people.  We  believe  that 
they  are  doing  noble  work,  but  the  improvement  is  so  slow^ 
that  it  must  be  very  discouraging.     Many  times  these  natives 

6i 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


EAST  COAST 

claim  to  believe  in  God,  when  they  really  have  no  conception 
of  a  Divine  Being-.  There  are  many  white  residents  of  Africa 
who  claim  that  the  missionaries  are  doing  no  good,  and  that 
their  converts  are  simply  converts  to  get  what  they  can  from 
the  missionary.  It  will,  no  doubt,  be  admitted  by  most  of  the 
thinking  Christian  people,  that  it  is  a  problem  as  to  what  is 
best  to  do  for  these,  the  lowest  order  of  humanity.  The  ma- 
jority of  opinion  by  Christian  people  living  in  Africa  is  that 
it  would  be  better  to  have  the  missionaries  teach  the  natives  to 
work,  rather  than  reading  and  writing,  and  doing  at  all  times 
all  things  possible  to  open  their  minds  to  the  Gospel,  by 
preaching  and  teaching  that  there  is  one  God  Almighty,  and 
that  Tesus  Christ  died  to  save  all  that  truly  believe  in  Him. 


DOWN  THE  EAST  COAST 

After  waiting  at  Mombasa  for  several  days  we  took  a 
small  steamer,  belonging  to  the  British  India  line,  bound  down 
the  east  coast  of  Africa  with  a  cargo  of  rice  from  Bombay. 
We  sailed  out  of  Mombasa  harbor  at  sunset  and  our  last  view 
of  the  island,  with  its  mellow  tinted  houses  nestled  in  greenery, 
with  the  blue  sea  for  a  setting,  was  a  beautiful  sight. 


63 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


i^PCra 


OL'R   1I()L1I).\\"    IX   AI-RIC"A 


ZANZIBAR 


In  the  earl}'  dawn  of  the  (Ui}',  after  leaving  Mombasa,  on 
looking"  (lUt  of  the  cabin  wincbnv,  we  saw,  close. at  hand,  the 
island  of  Zanzibar,  rising  out  of  the  blue  sea,  outlined  in  beau- 
tiful greens  of  the  \vaving  palms.  We  were  rowed  ashore  in 
a  nati\e  boat  in  the  cool  of  the  morning.  The  ancient  Arab 
city,  with  its  narrow  lanes,  or  streets,  winding  in  and  out  be- 
tween the  high  white  walls  of  the  houses,  looking  very  oriental. 
W^ith  a  guide,  we  \isite(l  the  market  place,  the  bazaar  where 
the  cross-legged  Hindu  sits  in  his  little  shop  (which  is  a  hole 
in  the  wall)  with  expressionless  face.  We  went  to  the  Africa 
Hotel  for  breakfast  (which  was  not  very  good),  and  were 
taken  to  the  top  floor.  In  climbing  the  two  flights  of  stairs, 
which  were  of  stone,  we  noticed  the  steps  were  worn  half 
down.  It  must  ha\e  taken  a  century  to  wear  these  stone  steps 
in  that  way.  as  the  feet  that  travel  them  are  usually  bare. 
From  the  Orient  we  descended  to  the  Modern  world  and  hired 
a  motor  car  for  the  drive  to  the  clove  "shambas,"  or  planta- 
tions of  Bububu,  seven  miles  from  the  city,  over  an  excellent 
paved  road,  between  rows  of  Mango  and  Palm  trees,  and  the 
picturesque,  thatched  huts  of  the  natives.  The  old  palaces  of 
former  sultans  lined  the  way,  as  in  olden  times  when  the  Sul- 
tan died,  a  new  palace  was  built  for  his  successor,  and  the 
others  allowed  to  go  to  ruin.  These  picturesque  ruins  are  now 
covered  with  a  thick  mass  of  vines  or  jungle  vegetation.  Zan- 
zibar exports  three  quarters  of  all  the  cloves  used  in  the  w^orld. 
This  is  a  good  year  for  the  l)usiness  and  a  bumper  harvest  is 
now  nearlv  completed.  The  trees  are  planted  in  rows,  like  our 
orchards,  and  the  leaxes  are  similar  to  our  cherry  trees. 

This  is  one  of  the  greatest  ivory  markets  of  Africa.  Most 
of  the  business  is  done  by  a  New  York  firm,  Arnold  Cheney  & 
Co.,  who  have  been  here  many  years. 

The  present  Sultan.  Ali-bin-Hammond.  who  is  about 
twentv-five  years  of  age,  was  educated  at  Eaton,  in  England, 
and,  of  course,  speaks  English  fluently.  He  has  built,  for  him- 
self, a  palace  in  the  center  of  the  business  district,  with  his 


67 


Ol'K    IIOI.IDW    l.\    Al-kKA 


ZAXZUJAR 

harem  adjoining,  lliis  palace  is  bnilt  with  colonnades  all 
around  it  up  to  the  fourth  floor,  looking  more  like  a  business 
house  than  a  palace. 

Zanzibar  is  under  an  English  protectorate ;  the  Sultan 
claims  a  strip  ten  miles  wide  along  the  coast,  and  has  leased  it 
to  the  English  at  a  regular  annual  rental.  A  court  of  English 
lawmakers  sit  with  him  to  make  all  laws,  and  he  has  little  ac- 
tual power. 

The  Germans  l)ought  out  all  the  rights  of  the  Sultan  along 
their  coast,  so  he  has  no  claim  to  their  East  African  territory. 
A  former  Sultan  was  not  so  good  a  trader,  and  undertook  co 
bluff  the  British  authority  and  dared  them  to  fire  on  his  ships. 
The  result  was  that  his  little  fleet  was  sunken  in  forty-five 
minutes.  The  mast  of  one  ship  still  shows  abo\e  the  water  in 
the  harbor,  and  a  danger  light  is  hung  above  it  everv  night. 
The  harbor  is  protected  l)y  islands,  and  is  a  rather  good  place 
for  vessels  to  anchor.  There  has  been  no  landing  place  made 
for  passengers,  and  the  nati\'e  row  boats,  \\hich  bring  pas- 
sengers from  the  s]ii])s.  are  run  upon  the  beach  as  far  as  pos- 
sible. 

As  we  wandered  about  the  tangled  streets  we  came  upon 
the  original  church  mission,  estaljlished  by  Livingstone,  the 
greatest  missionary  explorer  Africa  ever  had.  This  church 
is  in  a  large  garden  with  tropical  trees,  making  it  an  in\itingl\' 
cool  and  peaceful  place.  The  church  door  was  open  and  we 
stepped  inside  a  few  minutes.  We  called  upon  the  American 
Consul,  who  is  a  Virginian,  and  a  most  agreea1)le  gentleman. 
We  were  gladly  welcomed,  and  he  invited  us  to  luncheon  or 
dinner,  but  we  did  not  impose  upon  his  politeness.  He  tel^s 
us  that  there  is  an  .\merican  Colony  here,  consisting  of  another 
man  and  himself.  He  has  very  comfortable  but  oriental  look- 
ing rooms.  Alanv  ciu'ios  about,  and  a  carved  wood  oriental 
window  with  hanging  baskets  and  birds.  A  li\eried  servant 
brought  us  a  refreshing  drink  of  water. 

The  English  have  a  fine  golf  and  tennis  club  here  and  the 
Consul   in^•ited  us  to  play  a  game  of  golf  with  him.  at  five 

69 


OUR   IIULIDA^"  IX  Al'RICA 


MOZAMBIQUE 

o'clock,  but  the  very  thoug'ht  of  such  exertiou.  caused  us  to 
perspire  profusely,  and  we  declined  with  tlianks.  The  English 
abolished  slavery  fourteen  years  ago,  and  since  that  time  the 
labor  to  work  the  large  clove  plantations  has  been  rather  un- 
certain. 


MOZAMBIQUE 

Our  next  call  was  at  Mozambique,  fifteen  degrees  south 
of  the  equator.  It  is  an  island  and  was  one  of  the  first  colo- 
nies of  the  Portuguese  in  East  Africa,  settled  in  1508.  The 
harbor  is  protected  by  two  other  small  islands,  and  on  one  of 
these  is  the  best  lighthouse  on  all  the  east  coast.  This  is  the 
only  possession  of  Portugal  in  East  Africa,  which  was  not 
taken  from  them  by  conquest.  Mozambique  was  held  against 
all  odds  for  centuries.  The  aljility  to  hold  this  possession  may 
have  been  due  to  the  fact  that  the  harbor  has  a  narrow  en- 
trance and  is  guarded  by  the  largest  and  best  fort  in  Africa. 
This  fort  has  walls  many  feet  thick,  and  in  some  places  seventy 
feet  high,  and  is  supplied  with  a  large  number  of  cannon, 
which  in  their  day  must  have  been  of  great  service  in  defending 
this  ancient  stronghold.  It  is  a  matter  of  history  that  the 
stones  used  to  build  this  great  fort  were  brought  eight  thou- 
sand miles,  in  the  tiny  Dhows,  or  vessels  of  that  time.  It 
almost  seems  incrediljle.  Those  early  Portuguese  were  colon- 
izers and  fighters,  and  certainly  had  perseverance  to  build 
such  a  fort  and  to  bring  the  material  from  such  a  great  dist- 
ance. We  were  permitted  to  visit  this  fort,  and  go  through 
it  in  all  parts,  and  take  as  many  photographs  as  we  liked. 
There  were  about  a  dozen  soldiers  on  dutv,  two  of  whom  went 
with  us.  While  we  could  not  understand  a  word  they  spoke, 
still  they  courteousl)-  showed  us  all  there  was  to  be  seen. 
There  are  about  one  hundred  old  cannon  on  the  walls,  l)ut 
they  are  so  badly   rusted   and   weather-worn   that  not  a   shot 

71 


Ol'R  HOLIDAY  l.\   AlklCA 


H 
^ 


MOZA^IBIQUF, 

could  be  fired  tmrn  anv  of  them.  Of  course,  the  Ptjrtugnese 
recognize  the  fact  that  the  fort  and  ecjuipment  are  of  no  use 
in  these  days  of  modern  warfare. 

We  passed  the  Governor's  palace  near  the  f(jrt  and 
walked  through  what  was  once  the  Governor's  garden.  At 
present  the  palace  is  used  as  a  telegraph  station,  and  the  gar- 
den is  for  the  public. 

]\L)zaml)i(jue  nvw  have  had  a  hundred  thousand  or  more 
population  in  the  days  of  their  prosperity  (three  hundred 
vears  ago),  but  today  it  looks  deserted.  The  streets  are  nar- 
row but  clean,  and  the  houses  are  built  of  stone.  Idie  heavily 
bolted  doors  and  barred  windows  of  the  sixteenth  century  still 
remain,  and  in  some  of  the  windows  the  original  panes  of 
mica,  used  in  place  of  glass,  may  still  be  seen. 

The  climate  is  said  to  be  unhealthy  for  Europeans,  and 
we  onlv  saw  about  one-half  dozen  white  people  in  the  city. 
Thev  offered  for  sale  to  visitors,  beautiful  specimens  of  coral 
and  shells,  and  some  picttu'e  postal  cards.  We  tried  to  pur- 
chase some  of  the  latter — price,  a  shilling  per  dozen,  and  of- 
fered a  half  crown  in  payment.  Ixit  the  whole  of  their  force 
could  not  raise  enough  money  to  give  us  our  change. 

\'iewed  from  the  harbor  the  town  looks  very  picturestjue. 
There  is  a  good  landing  pier,  which  is  more  than  can  be  said 
of  some  other  ports  in  this  part  of  the  world.  This  part  of 
the  coast  is  subject  to  torrential,  tropical  rains  and  severe  cy- 
clones. A  few  hours  after  we  sailed  we  had  a  demonstration 
of  one  of  these  storms.  Just  a  few  miles  ahead  of  us  the  storm 
gathered  and  the  clouds  were  blacker  than  anv  we  had  ever 
seen,  at  least  so  thought  llic  one  lady  passenger.  Airs.  Wheeler. 
The  captain  noted  that  the  barometer  was  rapidly  falling  and 
(juickly  proceeded  to  secure  all  hatchways  and  fasten  the  steer- 
ing gear  with  ropes,  as  it  was  rather  loose  and  shaky.  How- 
ever, the  storm  did  no  damage.  The  rain  was  \er}-  heavy 
and  the  wind  kicked  u])  a  \ery  rough  sea.  and  being  a  head 
wind  put  us  behind  time  scxeral  hours.  Init  that  is  ot  no  con- 
se(|uence  in  this  part  of  the  w^rld. 

73 


Ol'k    IK  )I.II)  \\'    l.\   .\|-RIC^A 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


OUR  H()LI1).\\"   L\   AI-RICA 


BEIRA 


We  landed  at  Beira,  March  14,  1912,  and  found  it  greatly 
in  contrast  with  the  coast  cities  we  had  just  xdsited.  Wdiile 
it  is  rather  a  new  place,  and  has  only  seven  hundred  and  ninety- 
nine  white  people  and  ahout  fi\'e  thousand  native  hlacks,  it 
still  has  a  prosperous  appearance,  and  many  improvements 
are  being  made,  ddiis  is  the  seaport  of  the  Biera  and  Alash- 
onaland  and  Rhodesia  Railway,  and  the  only  seaport  that  has 
a  railway  connection  to  the  interior  for  several  hundred  miles. 
This  railway  has  only  been  completed  about  fi\e  years  and  is 
the  most  direct  and  natural  outlet  to  the  sea  for  Rhodesia  and 
all  adjoining  territory,  and  is  already  doing  a  large  freight 
business  with  the  interior. 

Beira  is  built  in  the  sand.  One  must  walk  through  about 
a  foot  of  sand  in  the  streets.  It  is  Portuguese  territory,  l)ut 
most  of  the  whites  are  English.  There  is  a  small  trollc}'  rail- 
way system  here  similar  to  that  in  Mombasa.  We  took  a 
ride  on  the  trolley  over  the  whole  system  and  noticed  many 
new  buildings  going  up,  one  sash  and  door  factory  which 
employs  over  one  hundred  hands,  several  large  printing  estal)- 
lishments,  and  an  excellent  hospital  for  natives,  which  is  well 
patronized  by  them.  Most  of  the  houses  are  Imilt  of  corru- 
gated iron  with  roofs  of  the  .same  material.  This  gives  the 
place  a  very  temporary  appearance  and  makes  the  houses  ex- 
tremel}'  hot  in  midday. 

^Ve  had  a  little  experience  when  we  first  landed,  having 
been  told  that  the  "Queens"  was  the  l)est  hotel.  This  was  a 
mistake,  which  I  soon  found  out.  T  left  Airs.  AAdieeler  with 
the  luggage  and  went  to  find  the  hotel,  to  get  them  to  send 
for  our  trunks.  Wdien  T  found  the  "Queens"  it  did  not  look 
inviting,  having  the  ap])earance  of  a  cheap  hotel  in  a  newly 
made  mining  camp.  The  hotel  office  was  in  the  l)ar  room, 
which  at  one  side  o])cned  to  the  street,  and  when  T  called,  was 


OUR  HOLIDAY  J.\  Al-kICA 


BEIRA 

filled  with  Purtui^iiese  and  almost  all  other  nationalities.  The 
business  "at  the  bar'"  was  rushing".  The  manager  sat  on  a 
nail  keg  outside  of  the  door,  and  "Dick  Deadeye,"  with  a  six 
shooter  strapped  around  his  waist  on  the  other  side.  I  asked 
the  manag'er  if  this  was  the  "Queens."  He  admitted  it  was. 
I  asked  if  he  had  a  room  for  Airs.  Wheeler  and  myself,  and  he 
replied  in  the  affirmati\  e.  I  asked  if  that  was  his  only  office 
and  he  said  it  was,  but  that  Airs.  Wheeler  could  get  to  the 
room  by  going  up  an  outside  stairway.  I  was  much  troubled 
by  such  a  reception  and  was  thinking  what  my  better  half 
would  .say  if  we  were  forced  to  accept  such  hospitality.  How- 
ever, on  my  way  back  I  met  an  Englishman  who  directed  us 
to  the  "Savoy  Hotel,"  which  was  built  on  a  modern  plan,  with 
clean  and  comfortable  rooms. 

A  high  sea  wall  has  been  built  for  a  mile  or  more  along 
the  sea  front,  and  ver}'  con\-enient  landing  piers.  The  place  is 
reall}-  a  sand  bar. 

Beira  has  an  excellent  prospect  for  the  future.  While  it 
is  a  hot  place,  yet  it  is  healthy  for  white  people. 


7'J 


OTR  IIOLIDAN."   IX   Al'RlCA 


SALISBURY 


At  seven  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  took  our  departure 
on  the  mail  train  for  the  interior.  This  railway  is  three  and 
one-half  feet  gauge,  with  iron  cross  ties  and  sixty  pound  rails, 
well  built,  and  for  so  new  a  countr}-  the  accommodations  are 
good.  We  had  a  compartment  in  a  new  car.  The  train  car- 
ries a  dining  car,  which  ena1:)led  us  to  get  along  very  well. 
For  the  first  hundred  miles  out  the  country  is  low,  flat  and 
hot,  but  Cjuite  fertile.  It  is  very  unhealthy  for  the  whites, 
and  in  this  part  of  the  country  the  Tsetse  Fly  abounds.  After 
passing  this  flat  count r}-  the  road  rises  rapidly  and  we  passed 
through  a  hea\-ily  wooded  section.  By  the  time  we  reached 
Salisbury,  three  hundred  miles  from  the  coast,  we  were  about 
five  thousand  feet  above  sea  level. 

This  young  city  of  about  three  thousand  population  is 
the  capital  of  Rhodesia,  and  it  has  the  appearance  of  pros- 
perity which  one  sees  in  a  new  country.  There  are  some  cred- 
itable brick  and  stone  blocks.  At  ele^'en  o'clock  in  the  morning 
the  business  streets  were  very  lively.  There  are  several  good 
stocks  of  goods  here,  as  the  town  draws  trade  for  hundreds  of 
miles.  There  is  a  cathedral,  several  churches,  hospital,  public 
library  and  state  buildings.  The  streets  are  filled  with  almost 
every  kind  of  vehicle,  from  a  rickshaw  to  a  twelve-mule 
freight  wagon. 

In  talking  with  a  merchant  in  Salisbur}-  he  said  he  had 
l)een  here  for  sixteen  months  and  was  doing  well,  and  would 
not  think  of  going  back  to  England,  but  that  there  had  been  a 
large  number  of  business  failures  during  the  last  season,  caused 
by  poor  crops,  resulting  from  \-ery  light  rainfall.  This  is  the 
greatest  country  for  bicycles  that  we  ha^•e  ever  seen,  and  nearly 
all  the  white  ladies  ride  their  wheel.  The  soil  in  this  part  of 
Rhodesia  is  not  rich,  except  in  spots.  \\'e  noticed  in  some 
places  fine  fields  of  corn  called  "Mealies."  We  saw  a  pros- 
perous looking  farmer  \\h(»  said  he  had  a  good   farm  twelve 

8i 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  Al'KICA 


SALISBURY 

miles  back  from  the  railway,  and  that  he  had  raised  an  excel- 
lent crop  of  "]\Iealies."  but  that  the  crop  over  the  whole  coun- 
try was  so  light  that  he  expected  to  get  one  dollar  and  forty 
cents  per  bushel  for  his,  which  is  about  twice  the  usual  price. 
The  price  of  land  in  Rhodesia,  so  far  as  we  could  ascertain, 
for  the  unimproved  veldt,  runs  from  one  dollar  to  two  dollars 
per  acre,  that  is  when  buying  from  the  government.  This 
veldt  is  usually  covered  with  small,  gnarled  trees  and  costs 
about  five  dollars  per  acre  to  clear  it  ready  for  crops.  The 
plowing  is  done  by  oxen  or  bullocks,  as  they  are  called  here, 
from  four  to  eight  cattle  being  hitched  to  a  plow.  One  black 
boy  goes  ahead  and  leads  the  bullocks,  another  wields  a  whip 
long  enough  to  reach  them  all,  while  another  holds  the  plow, 
or  sometimes  it  is  a  gang  of  two  or  three  plows.  The  cattle 
raising  in  this  country  is  said  to  be  prosperous. 

In  traveling  through  the  countr}"  \\-e  did  not  see  over  two 
hundred  head  of  stock  cattle  in  traveling  nearly  one  thousand 
miles  by  rail,  almost  the  whole  country  is  bare  of  crops  and 
cattle.  The  price  of  native  cows  here  is  twenty-five  to  thirty- 
five  dollars  per  head,  and  they  are  quite  small  and  inferior 
stock,  of  the  East  Indian  breed,  with  a  large  hump  on  their 
shoulders. 

We  are  told  that  all  the  good  land  near  the  railway  has 
been  bought  and  is  held  for  speculation.  Immigration  is  com- 
ing in  very  slowly  and  the  land  s])eculator  will  not  reap  a  har- 
vest. 

We  trax'eled  on  the  railway  from  Reira  to  Ihilawayo, 
then  on  to  A^ictoria  I^alls  and  back  to  P)ulawa_\d,  and  (here  is 
not  a  town  worth  calling  a  town,  outside  the  above  named 
places,  except  the  coal  mining  town  of  W'ankie.  Usually  the 
town  is  simpl}'  a  station  house. 


83 


OL'R  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


VICTORIA  FALLS  OX  THE  ZAMBEZI  RIVER 


\^ictoria  Falls  is  one  of  the  world's  wonders,  where  we 
spent  five  never-to-be-forgotten  days.  It  is  one  of  nature's 
sublimest  spectacles.  As  we  approached,  the  everlasting  roar 
filled  our  ears  and  the  spray  arose  to  the  height  of  a  mile  to 
meet  the  clouds.  The  river  where  it  takes  the  great  leap  is 
nearl}'  a  mile  wide  and  the  fall  is  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
The  peculiarity  of  these  wonderful  falls  is  that  the  general 
level  of  the  country  is  the  same,  both  above  and  below  the 
cataract.  The  water  drops  into  a  great  fissure  or  chasm,  which 
is  about  five  hundred  feet  wide  and  lies  at  right  angles  with 
the  river.  Over  one  bank  of  this  great  chasm  the  water  pours 
in  a  broken  mass  for  nearly  a  mile,  and  one  may  stand  on  the 
opposite  bank  from  where  the  water  plunges  down  on  a  level 
with  the  top  of  the  fall,  the  like  of  which  is  not  seen  elsewhere. 
These  falls  are  supposed  to  be  formed  by  the  earth  cooling, 
making  these  great  clefts  in  the  rock  formation.  Within  a 
mile  below  the  falls  the  stream  is  forced  to  run  in  four  differ- 
ent or  contrary  directions.  This  great  chasm  is  forty-three 
miles  long. 

On  our  first  morning  we  made  a  trip  to  the  eastern  side, 
called  the  "Rainbow  Falls,"  as  when  the  sun  shines  through  the 
spray  it  makes  a  beautiful  rainbow.  From  this  end  we  see 
probably  not  more  than  one-third  of  the  grand  sight,  as  the 
tremendous  spray  obscures  the  view.  The  next  day  we  made  a 
trip  to  what  is  called  the  "Rain  Forest."  This  takes  us  along 
the  brink  oi  the  great  chasm  or  the  main  fall.  The  spray  was 
so  hea\y  that  we  had  to  wait  until  the  w  ind  would  sweep  it 
about  to  get  the  extraordinar}-  view.  In  the  meantime  the 
spray  nearly  washed  us  away.  We  had  put  on  oil  hats,  rain- 
proof coats  and  ruljber  boots,  but  nothing  can  withstand  such 
a  do\\n])onr  of  water  as  the  spray  we  here  encountered.  We 
found  that  oiu'  rain-proof  coats  were  of  no  use  at  all,  as  cNcry 
stitch  of  our  clothing  was  as  wet  as  water  ccndd  make  it.  It 
was  warm   water  and   not   harmful.      Another  da_\-.   when   the 

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OUR  HOLIDAY  TX  AFRICA 


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OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


OTR  llOUnW  IX  A  I- RICA 


VICTORIA  FALLS 

wind  was  favorable  and  took  the  immense  volume  of  spray  in 
another  direction,  we  went  into  the  "Rain  Forest"  for  nearly 
half  a  mile,  and  got  some  fine  photographs  w'ithout  getting 
wet.  On  this  trip  we  saw  many  hundreds  of  monkeys  playing 
about  in  the  tree  tops.  On  another  day  we  followed  the  chasm 
and  on  looking  down  saw  many  baboons  from  six  feet  tall 
to  the  babies,  all  very  funny,  and  full  of  curiosity.  In  taking 
a  long  walk  in  the  jungle  and  high  grass  of  this  tropical  coun- 
try we  ne\'er  were  bitten  by  an  insect,  never  saw  a  snake  or 
a  wild  animal,  but  we  saw  the  spoor  of  the  deer.  The  dif- 
ferent parts  of  this  great  cataract  have  names  as  follow^s :  The 
Devil's  Cataract,  or  Leaping'  Water,  ninety  feet  wide  with  two 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  fall ;  the  main  fall  is  divided  by  a 
small  island  into  two  portions,  five  hundred  and  seventy-three 
and  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  yards  \vide,  respectively; 
the  Eastern,  or  Rainbow  Fall,  is  six  hundred  yards  wide,  with 
a  drop  of  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  It  is  impossible  to  de- 
scribe the  grp.ndeur  and  sublimity  of  nature  as  here  shown 
in  these  wonderful  falls,  which  a  lover  of  nature  leaves  with 
regret. 

The  camera  gives  only  a  faint  idea  of  the  beauty  of  Vic- 
toria Falls,  and  instinctively  we  feel  how  small  is  man  and 
how  great  the  Creator. 

The  railway  bridge  crosses  the  Zambezi  River  just  below 
the  falls.  It  is  so  close  that  the  spray  falls  on  the  trains  as 
they  pass.  This  bridge  is  four  hundred  and  fift}'  feet  above 
the  water,  is  said  to  be  the  highest  in  the  world,  and  was  built 
by  American  engineers.  It  was  necessary  to  build  a  cantile\er 
bridge,  the  kind  that  is  commenced  on  each  end  and  meets  in 
the  middle. 

One  day  we  had  a  delightful  tri])  about  ten  miles  up  the 
Zambezi  Ri\'er  by  motor  boat.  The  river  is  about  a  mile  and 
one-half  wide  and  dotted  with  sc\era1  small  islands.  The 
foliage  on  these  islands  is  \er}'  hca\\'  and  green.  We  landed 
on  one  of  these  islands  and  ate  our  lunch  under  the  tropical 
prdm  trees.     The  scenerv  along  the  rixer  is  charming.      Part 

89 


OTK  ITOLID.W  TX   AI-RTCA 


VICTORIA  FALLS 

of  the  way  our  course  lay  through  very  swift  rapids.  We  were 
only  about  one-half  a  mile  above  the  falls  when  we  started, 
and  one  of  our  party  was  thinking  what  would  become  of  our 
launch  and  the  people  in  it  if  the  spark  plug  should  blow  out, 
as  we  have  frequently  known  it  to  do  on  automobiles,  and 
leave  us  without  power,  remembering  the  drop  over  the  falls 
was  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  There  are  some  Hippo- 
potami along  the  river  in  this  section.  We  did  not  see  any  on 
our  trip,  but  later  in  the  day  some  people  were  out  in  a  small 
boat  and  a  "Hippo"  coming  very  close,  nearly  turned  the  boat 
over. 

One  day  the  thermometer  stood  at  ninety-five  in  the  shade 
while  we  were  there,  but  we  did  not  suffer  from  the  heat. 
Sometimes  the  temperature  gets  up  to  one  hundred  and  six- 
teen degrees.  In  their  cold  season,  which  is  August,  thev  have 
a  little  frost. 

The  Victoria  Hotel  and  the  meals  were  excellent,  and  the 
manager  a  pleasant  and  accommodating  gentleman.  The 
Mashonaland  Railway  is  now  built  eight  hundred  miles 
farther  north  from  the  falls.  The  present  terminus  being 
about  two  hundred  miles  o\-er  in  the  Congo  countrv,  which  is 
Belgian  territory. 

After  building  to  Victoria  Falls  the  raihvav  company 
were  led  to  build  to  "Broken  Hill."  about  three  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  distant,  as  there  was  a  great  mine  there  with  lead 
and  zinc  ore.  After  much  money  was  s])ent  it  was  found 
that  the  ores  were  so  refractory  they  could  not  be  smelted, 
and  today  these  great  ore  deposits  are  deserted.  AAdien  the 
"Star  of  the  Congo,"  a  wonderfullv  rich  copper  mine,  was 
discovered,  the  railroad  built  the  line  to  that  point.  This  rail- 
road was  built  1)}'  a  corporation,  but  the  English  government 
owns  about  one-half  the  stock,  and  have  guaranteed  the  bonds. 
Being  built  into  a  wilderness  populated  by  savages,  it  takes 
some  time  to  build  up  a  paving  business,  and  while  this  coun- 
trv   does   nol    fill    up    with    in"!migrants    like    our    own    fertile 

91 


OUR  HOLIDA^'  IX  AFRICA 


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VICTORIA  FALLS 

prairies  did,  still  a  moderate  immigration  is  coming  in  and  it 
will  be  a  paying  road  some  time. 

Aluch  trouble  is  now  being  experienced  in  smelting  the 
copper  ores  of  the  "Star  of  the  Congo"  mine.  A  Belgian  en- 
gineer, who  has  been  on  the  works  for  a  year,  was  coming 
down  on  the  same  train  with  us  and  told  us  of  the  refractory 
copper  ores,  but  they  hope  soon  to  overcome  this  and  will  then 
send  a  big  stream  of  copper  to  the  European  markets.  While 
their  ores  are  very  rich  it  is  not  a  profitable  place  to  invest 
until  all  doubt  about  their  smelting  has  been  removed. 

Many  hunters  now  go  up  this  road  to  the  Belgian  terri- 
tory to  hunt,  as  far  as  Lake  Tanganyiki.  The  hunting  in  that 
section  is  said  to  be  unequaled  in  any  part  of  the  world,  game 
of  all  kinds  being  abundant.  This  place  is  so  remote  from 
civilization  that  ivory  is  about  the  only  item  that  is  valuable 
in  dollars.  Some  tusks  are  being  sent  out  from  there  by  the 
way  of  Victoria  Nyanza  to  the  sea  at  Mombasa. 

When  the  Ciermans  get  their  railway  finished  to  Lake 
Tanganyiki  it  will  l)e  the  shortest  route  to  those  wonderful 
game  districts,  and  will  take  the  outgoing  shipments  from 
that  section.  That  country  is  reported  to  be  fertile  and  will 
no  doubt  soon  be  settled  l)y  Europeans,  as  it  lies  high,  and 
should  be  healthy. 

\\  ankie  is  a  coal  mining  station,  al)()Ut  eight\'  miles  south 
of  Victoria  Falls.  It  is  the  only  coal  mine  now  being  worked 
in  Rhodesia.  The  quality  is  semi-anthracite  and  makes  good 
steam  coal  and  is  used  for  all  the  railways  in  this  part  of 
Rhodesia.  The  xem  runs  from  five  to  twenty-nine  feet  in 
thickness  and  where  the  coal  is  so  scarce  as  it  is  in  Rhodesia 
this  mine  is  worth  more  than  some  gold  mines.  This  little  coal 
mining"  town  has  some  two  thousand  population,  nearly  all 
native  negroes,  and  is  the  only  town  on  this  line  of  railway  be- 
tween Victoria  brails  and  Ihilawa^o,  a  distance  of  two  hundred 
and  ninety  miles.  Tliis  w  ill  serve  to  illustrate  how  few  white 
population  there  is  now  in  Xorth western  Rhodesia,  llie  popu- 
lation is  about  se\en  hundred  and  fifty  whites  and  the  black 

93 


OUR  iiULiiJAV   iX  Ai-"R1LA 


J3ULAWAYO 

population  is  estimated  at  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand. These  blacks  do  but  little  farming',  raising  only  small 
patches  of  "Mealies"  for  their  own  use,  and  have  a  few  cattle, 
the  water  is  verv  scarce  for  live  stock. 


BLJLAWAYO 

After  the  dust}-,  disagreeable  tra\'eling  on  the  railway 
cibout  one  thousand  miles,  it  was  a  great  comfort  to  get  the 
good  accommodations  provided  by  the  Cirand  Hotel.  \\'e 
noticed  with  surprise  that  the  table  waiters  were  wearing 
shoes.  This  is  the  first  time  that  we  have  seen  shoes  worn 
by  servants  in  hotels  since  coming  to  Africa.  Undoubtedly  it 
is  one  of  the  indications  that  we  are  approaching  the  more 
civilized  portions  of  this  great  continent.  Idiis  is  a  Ijright, 
young  cit}'  with  six  thousand  population,  good  hotels,  electric 
light,  ])ul)lic  lil)rary,  V.  M.  C.  A.  association,  hospitals  and  ex- 
cellent church  l)uil(lings.  It  has  a  first-class  [)ul)lic  sch()ol  sys- 
tem and  a  daily  newspaper.  Idie  "Indaba  Tree."  under  which 
judgment  was  dispensed  hv  "King  ]\I(^silikatse"  and  "King 
Lobengula,"  is  still  standing  near  the  city  limits.  Bulawayo 
is  a  Zulu  word,  meaning  "The  place  of  the  killing." 

One  of  Cecil  Rhodes'  homes  is  located  one  and  one-half 
miles  from  the  town.  It  has  an  axcnue  one  hundred  and  thirty 
feet  wide,  i)lanted  with  evergreen  trees  the  whole  length.  The 
house  is  of  not  much  importance,  but  the  grounds  are  large 
and  he  beautifully.  It  was  undoul)te(llv  the  intention  of  the 
f)wner  to  build  a  mansion  on  this  place.  Rhodes  gave  it  to 
the  state  and  it  is  now  called  Government  House  and  is  occu- 
pied by  state  officials. 

The  streets  of  this  town  are  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet 
wide,  regularly  I'lid  out  at  right  angles,  but  the  buildings  on 

95 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


CECIL  RHODES  STATUE— BULAWAYO. 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


BULAWAYO 

each  side  are  only  one  and  two  stories,  which  gives  the  houses 
a  squatty  and  low  appearance.  At  the  intersection  of  two  prin- 
cipal streets  is  a  statue  of  Mr.  Rhodes  on  a  pedestal  about 
twenty-five  feet  high.  It  is  made  of  bronze  and  represents 
Mr.  Rhodes  in  the  attitude  of  making  a  speech.  He  is  dressed 
in  a  business  suit,  with  both  hands  behind  him.  The  day  we 
were  there  was  the  tenth  anniversary  of  his  death  and  a  beau- 
tiful tribute  to  his  memory,  in  the  shape  of  a  large  wreath  of 
flowers,  was  placed  on  the  pedestal.  At  another  prominent 
corner  is  a  pedestal  about  twenty  feet  high  surmounted  by  a 
gatling  gun.  On  the  side  of  this  pedestal  are  the  names  of  a 
company  of  soldiers  who  were  entirely  annihilated  in  the  last 
war  with  the  natives.  Bulawayo  is  destined  to  be  a  city  of 
importance  when  this  frontier  country  is  settled  up.  It  now 
has  railroads  from  three  directions,  that  is  from  Cape  Town, 
Beira  and  Victoria  Falls. 

Mining  is  in  the  air  here,  and  many  enterprising  men 
have  located  in  Bulawayo,  with  flaming  signs  in  their  office 
windows,  telling  the  passerby  of  the  great  opportunity  for  in- 
vestment. There  is  a  gold  mine  near  the  city,  which  is  being 
worked  with  moderate  success.  A  miner  just  in  from  his 
mine  handed  us  for  inspection  a  cone  made  of  gold,  which 
would  weight  at  least  twenty  pounds.  He  had  brought  it  to 
town  for  sale  to  the  bank.  There  were  two  prosperous  min- 
ers on  the  train  with  us  who  had  just  worked  out  a  small 
gold  find  which  netted  them  ten  thousand  dollars.  They  were 
going  down  to  Cape  Town  to  "blow  it  in."  It  has  been  demon- 
strated that  there  are  gold  mines  in  many  directions  from 
Bulawayo.  In  1908  the  amount  taken  out  from  all  Rhodesia 
was  twelve  million  five  hundred  thousand  dollars.  It  is  very 
difficult  to  get  the  natives  to  work  in  the  mines. 

The  country  or  veldt,  as  it  is  called  here,  is  red  clay, 
sand  and  gravel  and  lies  undulated  and  dotted  wdth  small, 
stunted  trees. 

The  right  Honorable  Cecil  Rhodes  was  the  father  of  this 
great  country  of  Rhodesia,  which  was  named  for  him.     He 

99 


OL'R  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


BULAWAYO 

lies  buried  in  iMatopa  Hills,  twenty-seven  miles  out  from 
Bulawayo.  He  selected  this  burial  place,  and  probably  there 
is  not  a  grander  or  more  impressive  sepulcher  of  modern  times. 
We  drove  out  to  see  the  place  one  beautiful  morning  in  March. 
The  roadway  is  niacadamed  and  graded  the  whole  distance. 

Matopa  Hills  are  a  wonderful  sight.  They  are  granite 
hills  rising  out  of  the  plains.  As  far  as  the  driveway  extends 
there  is  soil  sufficient  in  the  narrow  valleys  to  grow  trees, 
shrubs  and  flowers,  which  gives  the  drive  a  park  like  appear- 
ance. Arriving  at  the  end  of  this  drive  there  is  a  walk  of  a 
mile  or  two  of  very  stiff  climbing  up  to  the  grave,  and  on  the 
top  of  the  highest  of  these  granite  boulders,  called  "World's 
View,"  is  the  sepulcher  hewn  out  of  solid  rock.  It  is  covered 
with  a  slab  of  granite  on  which  is  inscribed  "Here  lies  the  re- 
mains of  John  Cecil  Rhodes,"  nothing  more,  for  he  who 
knows  Rhodesia,  knows  of  Mr.  Rhodes'  life  and  work  and 
a  eulogy  cut  in  marble  is  not  necessary.  The  whole  hill  is  a 
monument  to  this,  the  greatest  empire  builder  of  our  time.  By 
his  judgment  and  ability,  while  at  the  head  of  affairs  in  Africa, 
being  i)rompt  to  decide  and  quick  to  act,  a  country  equal 
in  size  to  one-half  of  Europe  was  taken  for  the  British  nation 
without  a  shot  being  fired  or  a  life  lost. 

In  going  by  train  from  Bulawayo  to  Kimberly,  we  passed 
through  Mafeking.  This  was  the  place  that  General  Baden 
Powell,  during  the  Boer  war,  held  for  a  number  of  months, 
Vv^th  only  eight  hundred  men.  It  now  has  a  population  of  six 
thousand,  and  is  the  chief  business  center  of  the  western  Trans- 
\'aal.  We  also  saw  the  place  where  the  first  gmi  of  the  Boer 
War  was  fired.  We  have  met  many  men  that  were  in  the  war, 
and  it  was  interesting  to  hear  them  talk  al)out  it. 


lOI 


OL'R  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


KIMBERLY 


We  arrived  at  this  most  important  diamond  mining  place 
in  the  world,  on  March  28,  19 12,  after  a  long,  tiresome  jour- 
ney by  rail  from  Bulawayo  a  distance  of  seven  hundred  miles, 
time  two  days  and  one  night;  average  speed  at  little  less  than 
twenty  miles  per  hour,  through  a  most  unattractive,  dusty 
country.  This  little  city,  with  its  thirty-four  thousand  popu- 
lation, is  known  everywhere.  It  was  brought  into  existence 
in  1870,  when  diamonds  were  first  discovered  here.  The  first 
year  "The  Star  of  the  South  African  Diamond  Mines"  was 
discovered,  and  this,  with  other  valuable  diamond  finds,  start- 
ed a  great  rush  to  this  point,  which  created  a  big  mining  camp 
and  developed  into  the  city  of  Kimberly.  It  is  a  pretty  little 
city  with  streets  very  irregular  and  shaded  by  lovely  pepper 
trees.  There  is,  within  a  radius  of  three  and  one-half  miles, 
the  DeBeers,  the  Kimberly,  the  AX'esselton,  the  Bultfontein 
and  the  Dutoitspan,  all  celebrated  diamond  mines,  and  now  are 
owned  by  the  DeBeers  company.  The  value  of  diamonds  stead- 
ily advanced  until  1907,  when  the  financial  troubles  arose  in  the 
United  States,  which  caused  much  falling  off  in  demand  for 
diamonds.  As  the  DeBeers  company  now  owns  all  five  of 
these  mines,  they  work  only  as  many  as  the  market  justifies, 
aiming  to  keep  up  the  price  by  keeping  down  the  production, 
as  they  produce  three-fourths  of  the  world's  output  of  dia- 
monds. However,  the  Premier  Diamond  Mine,  near  Pretoria, 
may  have  some  important  bearing  on  the  diamond  supply  in 
the  future,  and  the  DeBeers  company  do  not  own  the  Premier. 

After  a  poor  bed  and  a  poorer  l:)reakfast  at  the  Queens 
Hotel,  we  went  to  the  office  of  the  DeBeers  company  for  a 
permit  to  visit  their  Kimberly  Diamond  ]\Iine.  It  was  cheer- 
fully granted  when  we  explained  to  the  obliging  secretary 
that  we  were  simply  untitled  Americans  doing  Africa,  and  did 
not  wish  to  return  without  seeing  the  greatest  diamond  mine 
in  the  world.    Armed  with  our  permit  we  hastened  to  the  Kim- 

103 


OUR  ilULlDAV   iX   AFRICA 


KIMBERLY 

berly  mine  and  were  soon  under  the  direction  of  a  most  polite 
and  educated  guide.  First  we  went  to  the  old  or  surface  mine. 
It  is  called  a  "pipe,"  that  is  to  say,  a  circle  four  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  diameter,  wdiich  stands  in  a  perpendicular  position 
and  goes  straight  down  into  the  earth  to  an  untold  depth. 
This  "pipe"  is  filled  with  soft  blue  rock,  called  by  the  miners 
"the  blue,"  and  this  is  the  rock  that  contains  the  diamonds. 
All  the  great  machinery  of  this  mine  is  simply  to  get  the  dia- 
monds separated  from  the  blue  rock.  First  they  worked  open 
from  the  surface,  but  the  sides  are  so  soft  that  they  continually 
caved  in  on  the  works,  until  it  was  impractical  to  work  longer 
from  the  surface.  Then  the  miners  went  back  a  cjuarter  of  a 
mile  and  sunk  a  shaft  about  one  thousand  feet  and  drove  a 
lateral  tunnel  into  the  "blue"  and  at  present  they  are  mining 
about  six  hundred  feet  below  the  surface. 

As  we  stood  beside  the  elevator  which  brings  the  blue  to 
the  surface  we  noticed  that  there  were  two  large  iron  buckets, 
each  holding  about  a  ton.  ^^'hen  one  is  filled  it  shoots  to  the 
top  very  rapidly,  and  at  the  same  time  the  other  iron  bucket 
drops  to  the  bottom.  Automatically,  when  these  buckets  reach 
the  top  they  dump  their  load  into  a  large  funnel  made  of  iron 
and  under  this  funnel  runs  a  small  railway  track  and  small 
iron  dump  cars  which  hold  about  one-half  a  ton.  From  this 
funnel  the  ''blue"  is  dropped  into  these  dump  cars  and  hauled 
away  to  their  dumping  floor,  which  is  a  wide  stretch  of  hard 
level  earth  about  three  miles  long  and  more  than  a  mile  wide. 
The  blue  is  left  for  a  year  to  decompose  and  slack  in  the  sun, 
the  wind  and  rain.  After  the  elements  have  for  a  year  slacked 
and  pulverized  the  "blue,"  it  is  put  in  these  little  dump  cars 
again  and  run  away  to  the  washer.  The  guide  took  us  through 
the  washing  department  where  the  water  is  turned  in  a  great 
many  churn  like  tanks  and  the  ''blue"  is  washed  and  churned 
JDy  machines  until  all  the  gra\-el.  as  well  as  the  diamonds,  is 
washed  out.  The  diamond  bearing  gravel  is  then  taken  to  the 
Pulsator,  which  is  a  separate  Iwilding  and  where  this  gravel 

105 


OL'R  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


KIMBERLY 

is  separated  into  six  different  sizes,  and  each  size  is  slowly 
pulsated  over  an  inclined  iron  plane,  which  is  covered  with 
vaseline.  When  the  gravel  drops  on  this  plane  the  diamonds 
stick  to  the  vaseline  and  the  other  gravel  is  gradually  rolled 
off.  The  attendant  then  scrapes  off  the  vaseline  and  the  dia- 
monds. This  is  placed  in  a  small  iron  drum  with  very  small 
holes  perforated  on  all  sides.  This  drum  is  then  securely 
locked  and  dropped  in  a  large  tank  of  boiling  water.  When  it 
has  boiled  until  most  of  the  vaseline  has  floated  off,  it  is  put 
into  another  tank  of  boiling-  soda  water  and  here  all  the  re- 
maining grease  is  soon  removed.  Then  the  drum  is  taken  into 
the  sorter's  office  where  it  is  unlocked  and  the  contents  poured 
on  the  sorter's  table.  To  an  inexperienced  eye  the  contents 
looks  like  a  pile  of  ordinary  gravel.  The  sorter  scatters  it  out 
with  a  little  trowel  and  selects  the  diamonds,  throwing  the 
worthless  gravel  aside. 

We  watched  the  sorting  process  for  half  an  hour,  and  dur- 
ing that  time  a  handful  of  diamonds  were  found.  One  was  a 
brilliant  straw  colored  diamond  the  size  of  the  end  of  your 
thumb,  a  very  large  and  valuable  stone.  Others  were  clear 
white  and  larger  than  a  kernel  of  corn,  and  many  small  dia- 
monds. This  is  the  result  of  washing  of  probably  a  thousand 
truck  loads  of  "blue."  It  is  said  that  they  get  less  than  one- 
half  a  caret  of  diamonds  to  a  truck  of  earth.  They  are  now 
working  in  this  mine  from  two  to  three  thousand  native  blacks, 
who  make  from  seventy-five  cents  and  rations  per  day  upward, 
according  to  their  ability  and  zeal  in  the  work.  There  are 
seven  hundred  white  men  who  make  from  seventy  dollars  to 
one  hundred  and  twenty  dollars  per  month.  The  white  men 
are  employed  as  bosses  and  do  the  work  where  great  care  and 
attention  is  acquired.  The  native  negroes  are  employed  for 
a  stated  term,  from  three  to  six  months,  and  are  kept  within 
the  compound.  They  have  good  quarters  and  plenty  of  food 
and  in  case  of  sickness  or  accident  there  is  a  well  ecjuipped  hos- 

107 


OUR  IIOIJDAN    l.\   .\l"kICA 


KIAIBERLY 

pital  where  they  receive  the  best  of  attention  and  medical  sci- 
vice,  without  charge. 

Mr.  Rhodes  was  one  of  the  early  owners  of  these  mines 
and  made  his  immense  fortune  here.  By  his  skill  and  diplo- 
macy the  other  large  mines  were  bought  out  and  consolidated 
in  one  company,  the  DeBeers.  It  is  by  far  the  most  important 
and  wealthiest  of  any  company  in  the  world  in  this  business. 
They  have  enough  material  in  sight  to  keep  them  at  work  for 
a  generation,  and  as  far  as  we  can  judge,  there  is  no  danger 
of  a  scarcity  of  diamonds.  It  would  be  better  for  humanity 
if  there  were  none,  and  let  this  vast  amount  of  labor  be  spent 
in  producing  the  necessities  of  life,  rather  than  the  luxury  of 
diamonds. 


109 


OIR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


JOHANNESBURG 


Johannesburg  has  a  population  of  t^vo  hundred  and  forty 
thousand,  of  whom  one-half  are  white.  It  is  a  real  live  city, 
not  excelled  anywhere.  All  this  has  been  brought  about  by 
the  largest  gold  mining  camp  in  the  world.  In  1909,  the 
world's  output  of  gold  was  estimated  at  four  hundred  and 
fifty  million  dollars,  of  which  the  Rand  Reef  contributed  one 
hundred  and  fifty  million,  or  a  little  over  one-third  of  the 
world's  output.  In  1910  the  Rand's  output  was  one  hundred 
and  sixty  million,  and  in  191 1  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
million,  showing  an  increase  every  year.  This  reef  has  been 
located  definitely  for  over  fifty  miles,  and  runs  due  east  and 
v^est  through  Johannesburg.  Inside  the  city  there  are  at  least 
fifteen  mining  plants,  with  their  tall  smoke  stacks  belching 
smoke,  each  plant  having  acres  of  washed  earth  dumped 
around  them,  making  a  little  row  of  hills  at  least  one  hundred 
feet  high.  The  laborers  employed  here  are  the  native  negroes, 
but  it  requires  an  army  of  white  men  to  direct  them.  The 
wages  of  nearly  all  are  spent  in  this  city,  and  the  cash  paid 
out  in  wages  each  month  is  over  seven  million  dollars,  which 
makes  a  very  large,  paying  retail  trade,  yet  the  competition 
is  sharp  and  many  of  the  stores  do  a  credit  business  with  the 
miners,  and  they  must  have  many  losses.  Many  of  the  black 
Zulu  boys  die  of  pneumonia,  as  the  mines  are  warm,  and  in 
the  winter  the  weather  is  cold. 

We  made  a  visit  to  the  "Robinson  Deep"  gold  mine,  in- 
side the  city  limits.  There  are  acres  of  iron  vats  and  ma- 
chinery where  the  gold  is  extracted  by  the  "Cyanide"  process. 
They  are  working  this  mine  now  at  the  depth  of  eighteen  hun- 
dred to  thirty-three  hundred  feet  and  crushing  the  rock  with 
heavy  stamps.  A  tremendous  power  ])lant  is  required  to  handle 
these  acres  of  machinery  and  to  drive  the  great  number  of 
electric  motors  in  all  parts  of  the  mine,  besides  the  power 
required  to  hoist  the  material  and   to  run  the  dump  cars  to 

III 


OL'R  HOLIDAY   IX  AFRICA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


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OL'R  HOLIDAY   IX   AhklCA 


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JOHANNESBURG 

carry  away  the  refuse.  Also  to  drive  the  great  number  of 
pressure  drihs  which  are  used  in  drilHng  blast  holes.  The 
capital  invested  here  is  almost  fabulous.  The  smallest  mines 
having  an  investment  of  one  million  dollars  and  over,  and 
many  of  the  larger  plants  five  million  dollars.  In  the  "Trans- 
vaal Leader"  of  April  3,  1912,  are  printed  reports  of  fifty-six 
of  these  mining  plants,  and  their  profits  as  reported,  run  all 
the  way  from  nothing  to  three  hundred  per  cent  per  annum, 
but  most  of  them  report  dividends  of  about  twenty  per  cent. 

Johannesburg  is  six  thousand  feet  abo\'e  sea  level,  al- 
though only  twenty-eight  degrees  south  of  the  equator,  is  cold 
during  the  winter  months;  in  June,  July  and  August  fre- 
quently they  have  snow  and  ice.  It  is  situated  on  rocky  hills 
with  beautiful  homes  and  gardens.  All  of  our  fall  flowers, 
at  this  time,  were  blooming  in  great  profusion.  Cosmos  grow 
wild  and  were  everywhere  in  the  fields.  Dahlias  and  chrys- 
anthemums were  glorious,  beside  scarlet  sage  and  many  others. 

We  went  to  one  of  the  show  nurseries.  It  was  certainly 
a  lovely  place  with  all  kinds  of  fruits  and  flowers.  \Yq  also 
were  taken  to  the  Country  Club.  It  w^as  most  beautifully 
landscaped.  There  was  an  eighteen-hole  golf  links,  eighteen 
tennis  courts,  swimming  pools  and  many  other  sports.  The 
Country  Club  has  fifteen  hundred  members.  The  city  is 
only  twenty-eight  years  old  and  has  immense  business  blocks, 
really  looks  much  like  Kansas  City,  Missouri,  being  situated 
so  high,  it  gets  more  rain  than  the  surrounding  country.  This 
keeps  the  vegetation  very  thick  and  green.  While  we  were 
there  the  rain  fell  nearly  every  afternoon.  Still  it  was  very 
dusty  in  the  morning,  as  the  wind  blows  the  sand  from  the 
mines,  making  it  very  disagreeable.  A  sign  frequently  seen 
in  the  sho])  \\indows  reads  as  follows:  "Closed  on  account  of 
the  dust ;  come  in." 

115 


OL'K   I1()IJI).\\-   IX   Al'kICA 


JOHANNESBURG 

The  Premier  Diamond  Mine  is  situated  thirty  miles  east 
of  IVetoria.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  We  could 
not  leave  this  part  of  Africa  without  seeing  it  and  made  a 
special  trip  there  one  day,  going  through  the  whole  place.  The 
diamond  "Pipe"  is  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  across  one 
way,  and  nine  hundred  feet  the  other  way,  being  oval  in  shape, 
and  goes  straight  down  into  the  earth  beyond  the  knowledge 
of  the  local  engineers.  This  mine  has  always  been  worked 
from  the  surface  and  it  is  an  interesting  sight  to  stand  on  the 
bank  and  see  the  army  of  mules  and  iron  dump  cars  at  work 
in  the  pit,  five  hundred  feet  below.  All  the  "blue"  rock  here 
is  taken  directly  to  the  stamp  mills  and  is  ground  and  washed. 
The  process  is  similar  to  that  described  in  the  Kimberly  Mines, 
except  that  they  do  not  spread  the  "blue"  on  the  floors  to  be- 
come weather  slacked.  All  the  blast  holes  are  loaded  with 
dynamite  and  fuse  and  are  fired  at  noon,  while  the  miners  are 
at  lunch.  We  perched  ourselves  on  an  elevation  and  waited 
for  the  blast.  It  all  went  off  within  three  minutes,  and  sound- 
ed like  artillery  firing  in  battle.  There  are  several  million  dol- 
lars capital  invested  in  the  Premier  Diamond  Mines.  They 
work  seven  thousand  natives  and  several  hundred  white  men. 
They  "pip^"  the  water  for  the  mines,  thirty  miles.  They  are 
compelled  to  pay  to  the  Natal  Government  sixty  per  cent  of 
their  profit.  The  mine  must  be  very  profitable  to  do  that  and 
still  have  a  fair  profit  left  for  the  stockholders. 

The  largest  white  diamond  known  was  found  here  in  Jan- 
uary, 1905.  The  weight  was  three  thousand  and  twenty-four 
carets,  or  one  and  three-quarters  pounds.  Dimensions,  four 
by  two  and  one-half  and  one  and  one-half  inches  in  thickness, 
too  heavy  to  be  worn  as  a  chest  sparkler  with  comfort.  It  was 
presented  to  King  Edward  the  seventh. 

There  is  much  prospecting  going  on  in  this  vicinity,  and 
quite  recentlv  a  new  diamond  mine  has  been  located  within 

117 


Ol-R  HOLIDAY  IX  Al'RTCA 


JOHANNESBURG 

three  miles  of  the  Premier,  but  it  has  not  been  worked  long 
enough  to  determine  whether  it  would  be  a  paying  investment. 

Pretoria,  the  capital  of  the  Union  of  the  South  African 
States.  It  is  a  bright  young  city,  forty-six  miles  north  of 
Johannesburg.  It  lies  in  a  narrow  valley,  surrounded  by  pict- 
urescjue  hills,  forty-five  hundred  feet  above  sea  level.  It  is 
a  winter  health  resort  and  has  all  the  modern  city  improve- 
ments. At  present  they  are  erecting  the  capitol  buildings, 
which  are  expected  to  cost  about  twenty-five  million  dollars. 
The  site  overlooks  the  town  and  is  very  beautiful.  Offices 
will  be  provided  in  these  buildings  for  the  Governor  General, 
ministers  and  officials,  but  the  Union  of  the  South  African 
Parliament  will  remain  at  Cape  Town,  as  heretofore. 

After  a  ten  days'  delightful  sojourn  in  Johannesburg  we 
continued  our  journey  by  rail  to  Durban  on  the  coast;  distance, 
four  hundred  and  eighty-two  miles.  We  made  the  trip  by  the 
express  train,  unlimited,  in  twenty-five  hours.  This  is  the  fast- 
est train  on  this  important  railroad,  and  if  we  had  taken  any 
other,  no  one  knows  when  we  would  have  reached  our  desti- 
nation. 


119 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


JOHANNESBURG 

Lady  Smith  is  one  of  the  small  cities  we  passed  throiigli 
on  our  way  to  the  coast.  It  is  quite  a  pretty  place  in  a  rough, 
scenic  country.  It  was  here  that  many  hard  fought  battles  of 
the  recent  Boer  War  took  place,  and  on  the  surrounding  hills 
are  many  monuments  erected  to  mark  the  burial  places  of  dif- 
ferent heroes.  One  of  these  monuments  marks  the  spot 
where  the  son  of  Lord  Roberts  fell. 

Pietermarifcburg  is  another  of  the  young  cities  we  passed 
through  in  going  down  to  the  sea.  It  has  a  population  of 
thirty  thousand  and  is  the  seat  of  the  government  of  Natal. 
It  is  the  most  beautifully  situated  of  any  place  we  have  visited 
in  South  Africa,  lying  in  a  basin  two  thousand  feet  below  the 
surrounding  country.  We  were  more  than  an  hour  winding 
our  w^ay  around  the  steep  incline,  past  many  beautiful  moun- 
tain side  residences  with  the  city  far  below  and  in  view  most 
of  the  time.  They  have  many  fine  public  buildings  for  so 
small  a  place,  the  most  important  being  the  town  hall,  which 
cost  one-half  million  dollars.  There  is  nothing  small  about 
these  people  when  they  are  spending  the  public  money. 


121 


Ol'R  HOLIDAY   1\   AI'UICA 


DURBAN 


The  chief  seaport  of  Natal  and  its  commercial  capital. 
It  has  a  population  of  sixty  thousand,  nearly  half  of  which 
are  whites ;  the  remainder  being  Negroes  and  East  Indians. 
It  is  the  cleanest  and  prettiest  seaport  we  have  visited  in  this 
part  of  the  world.  The  public  buildings  are  handsome  and 
the  streets  are  wide  and  clean ;  all  together  it  is  most  attractive. 
The  weather  was  ideally  beautiful  when  we  were  there.  On 
the  surrounding  hills  there  are  many  beautiful  residences  sur- 
rounded by  lovely  gardens,  indicating  much  wealth.  The 
Marine  Hotel,  where  we  domiciled,  would  be  a  credit  to  any 
city,  and  is  beautifully  situated,  overlooking  the  bay.  The 
harbor  has  a  narrow  entrance,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  wide, 
with  a  lighthouse  set  upon  a  promontory,  about  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  throws  a  strong  light  twenty  miles 
out.  The  town  has  been  called  the  "Garden  of  South  Africa," 
"The  Pearl  of  the  Indian  Ocean,"  "The  Queen  of  South 
Africa."  The  most  noteworthy  structure  is  the  new  town  hall, 
said  to  be  the  handsomest  building  on  the  continent.  It  was 
finished  two  years  ago  at  an  expense  of  one  million  and  five 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  It  contains  the  free  public  library, 
museum,  art  gallery  and  offices  for  the  city  officials.  We 
visited  the  museum,  which  was  most  interesting  to  us,  as  it 
contained  all  the  wild  animals,  stuffed  and  in  glass  cases,  that 
we  have  recently  seen  in  their  live  state,  as  well  as  a  great 
collection  of  other  curios.  The  art  gallery  is  well  supplied 
with  pictures,  manv  of  considerable  note.  The  free  public  li- 
brary has  a  large  number  of  books  and  is  a  great  benefit  to 
the  city.  The  Governor's  Mansion  is  located  on  the  highest 
point  on  the  bluff,  and  has  a  charming  view  of  the  whole  city, 
harbor  and  ocean.  This  beautiful  place  was  built  several 
years  ago,  when  Durban  had  a  Governor.  The  acres  .sur- 
rounding it  were  ])lantcd  in  rare  trees,  shrubbery  and  flowers, 
interspersed  with  walks  and  drives.  Since  the  formation  of 
the  Union  of  the  South  African  States  one  governor  is  ap- 

123 


ULR  HOLIDAY   IX   A 1"  RICA 


DURBAN 

pointed  for  all  the  Union,  and  he  resides  at  the  capital,  Pre- 
toria. Nevertheless,  Durban  in  its  desire  to  make  the  city 
attractive,  keeps  this  mansion  and  grounds  in  fine  condition, 
simply  as  a  show  place.  There  is  a  race  course  in  the  central 
part  of  the  city,  given  to  the  public  at  an  early  day  with 
the  proviso  that  it  can  be  used  only  for  public  sports,  and 
inside  the  track  is  an  eighteen-hole  golf  course.  The  city  has 
grown  up  around  this  race  course,  but  it  must  be  retained  for 
sports  only. 

The  largest  vessels,  drawing  thirty-three  feet  of  water, 
come  up  alongside  the  loading  docks,  and  a  large  dry  dock  is 
maintained  here.  The  coal  mines,  which  are  about  two  hun- 
dred miles  inland,  have  probably  done  as  much  as  any  other 
one  thing  to  make  this  a  great  shipping  point.  It  is  a  good 
quality  of  coal  and  delivered  to  the  ships  at  four  dollars  per 
ton.  This  causes  all  the  big  steamers  from  England  to  come 
here  for  coal,  and  makes  this  really  the  starting  point  of  the 
Union  Castle  Mail  Steamers  on  their  return  trip  to  England. 

The  climate  is  a  very  delightful  one  for  a  winter  resort, 
while  the  location  is  thirty  degrees  south,  yet  the  Indian  Ocean 
so  tempers  the  seasons  that  they  never  have  frost  at  Durban, 
and  many  of  the  tropical  trees  and  flowers  grow  in  profusion, 
still  the  oranges  which  they  raise  are  not  good,  as  they  are 
green  and  sour.  The  rainfall  is  thirty-nine  inches  per  annum, 
enough  to  make  this  a  fine  agricultural  country.  The  prin- 
cipal exports  from  Durban  in  1909  were  coal,  four  million  five 
hundred  thousand  dollars;  wool,  four  million  five  hundred 
thousand  dollars,  and  corn,  two  million  dollars,  not  enough  in 
any  line  to  greatly  affect  the  world's  markets.  It  is  only 
eighty-nine  years  since  this  city  was  settled,  and  there  were 
very  few  settlers  in  the  interior  for  some  years  later.  It  is  one 
of  the  strictest  Sabbath  keeping  places  we  have  visited,  al- 
though they  have  several  daily  papers,  none  of  them  print  a 
Sundav  morninq:  edition. 


12: 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


o 

Q 
O 

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cc 


EAST  LONDON,  CAPE  COLONY,  SOUTH  AFRICA 


After  a  very  delightful  stay  at  Durban  we  took  the  Union 
Castle  Mail  Steamship,  "Walmer  Castle,"  for  Cape  Town. 
We  had  four  days  of  perfect  weather  on  our  journey  to  Cape 
Town,  and  on  the  way  our  first  call  was  at  East  London, 
which  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  sea  coast  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Buffalo  River.  There  is  really  no  natural  harbor,  but 
walls  have  been  built  on  each  side  of  the  stream  for  a  mile 
inland,  and  piers  have  been  built  out  into  the  sea  for  tw'O  thou- 
sand feet,  and  the  channel  is  kept  dredged  out  to  the  depth  of 
twenty-five  feet.  Fine  docks  have  been  built  along  the  river 
wall  and  loading  cranes  erected.  The  immense  sum  of  ten 
million  dollars  has  been  spent  here  to  make  this  a  good  ship- 
ping point.  It  is  now  the  third  port  in  volume  of  exports  in 
Cape  Colony.  The  railroad  comes  along  the  docks,  making 
the  handling  of  freight  for  small  steamers  very  convenient. 
On  the  day  of  our  visit  there  were  five  steamers  in  port  load- 
ing or  discharging  cargo.  As  our  steamer  draws  twenty-five 
feet  of  water,  we  anchored  one-half  mile  out.  L'sually  the 
sea  is  very  rough  and  the  passengers  going  ashore  are  swung 
over  the  side  of  the  ship  in  a  basket,  and  we  had  our  first  ex- 
perience of  this  kind.  It  is  a  large  circular  willow  basket  that 
will  hold  ten  people.  It  is  five  feet  in  diameter  and  seven  feet 
high,  with  heavy  loops  on  top  and  a  small  door  on  one  side. 
\\'hen  full  the  door  is  bolted  on  the  outside.  The  signal  to 
hoist  away  is  given,  the  basket  and  load  is  swung  by  the 
ship's  crane,  high  in  the  air  over  the  side,  and  rather  suddenly 
lowered  to  the  deck  of  the  small  steam  tender.  It  is  rather  a 
dizzy  experience.  Tin's  performance  is  repeated  until  the 
tender  is  loaded. 

East  London  has  a  population  of  twenty-five  thousand, 
one-half  of  them  white  and  the  other  half  negroes.  It  is  quite 
a  pretty  place  and  very  fine  surf  bathing.  We  drove  along 
this  beautiful  wide  beach,  where  the  breakers  continually  roll 
in,  and  enjoyed  seeing  the  people  in  bathing.     There  is  a  fine 

127 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


OL'R  11()LI1).\\-   l.\  Al'RICA 


^1^1 


Ml' I  I 


PORT  ELIZABETH 

beach  hotel  here  and  in  the  season  thousands  of  people  from 
the  surrounding  country  come  here  for  a  holiday,  many  of 
them  bringing  tents  and  camping  outfits.  The  tram  cars  run 
along  the  whole  length  of  the  beach  and  there  are  many  amuse- 
ment places  erected. 

The  railway  runs  back  into  the  interior  and  is  connected 
with  the  whole  South  African  system,  and  the  country  is  very 
fertile  a  few  miles  back  from  the  coast.  This  part  of  the 
country  has  been  settled  by  the  English  for  a  hundred  years. 
Corn,  oats  and  beans  are  generally  raised,  and  wine  producing 
is  of  much  importance ;  but  wool  is  the  greatest  export,  and 
our  steamer  was  busy  all  day  loading  from  lighters  into  the 
hold.  One  of  the  sights  of  the  town  are  the  wagons  with 
twelve  to  twenty  oxen  with  a  negro  leading  the  front  pair 
and  another  wielding  a  whip  about  fifteen  feet  long.  The 
town  hall  is  the  most  showy  building  in  the  city,  with  a  hand- 
some clock  tower  and  a  bronze,  equestrian  statue,  a  memorial 
of  the  soldiers  killed  in  the  Boer  War.  East  London  is  well 
supplied  with  hotels,  schools,  colleges,  hospitals  and  churches, 
and  has  a  delightful  climate. 


I'ORT  ELIZABETH,  CAPE  COLONY,  SOUTH  AERICA 

This  is  the  second  city  in  Cape  Colony,  and  four  hundred 
and  twenty-five  miles  east  of  Cape  Town  by  sea,  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  thirty-three  thousand,  one-half  of  whom  are  Euro- 
peans and  one-half  Negroes.  It  has  been  occupied  by  the  En- 
glish about  a  hundred  years  and  is  a  fitie  business  city,  with 
handsome  public  and  ])ri\'ate  buildings,  and  is  a  large  shipping 
port.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  "Liverpool"  of  South  Africa. 
It  is  situated  on  an  open  bay  and  shi])s  do  not  have  much 
protection  from  storms  which  fref|uent  these  seas.     The  town 

131 


OUR  HOLID.W   l.\   .\l"Klc;.\ 


^'  ^'^I'lt 


^  I    c 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


OUR   HOLIDAN'    1 X   Al'KlCA 


PORT  ELIZABETH 

lies  on  the  hills  of  about  two  hundred  feet  elevation,  and 
many  of  the  streets  are  so  steep  that  they  are  built  with  steps 
for  pedestrians,  and  not  used  for  vehicles.  In  the  center 
part  is  a  park  where  Sir  Rufan  Donkin,  the  first  governor, 
built  a  pyramid  of  stone  to  the  memory  of  his  deceased  wife, 
Elizabeth,  for  wdiom  the  town  was  named.  It  has  the  follow^- 
ing  inscription :  "One  of  the  most  perfect  human  beings  who 
has  given  her  name  to  the  town  below."  As  this  is  the  high- 
est point  in  the  town,  a  lighthouse  has  been  erected  here,  which 
guides  the  mariner  many  miles  at  sea.  There  is  an  immense 
amount  of  export  business  done  here.  All  day  from  sunrise 
to  midnight  we  were  busily  engaged  in  packing  away  in  the 
hold  of  our  steamer,  every  kind  of  produce  that  is  sent  out 
from  South  Africa.  First  of  importance  is  the  wool  export, 
and  next  is  the  ostrich  feathers,  being  consigned  to  New  York 
and  London,  and  also  some  sugar. 

There  is  a  handsome  town  hall  on  the  public  square,  a 
public  library  containing  forty-five  thousand  volumes,  a  fine 
building  and  a  credit  to  the  place.  A  very  life-like  statue  of 
Queen  Victoria,  in  white  marble,  stands  in  front  of  the  library. 
These  people  in  South  Africa  are  very  extravagant  in  public 
buildings. 

Southern  Africa  is  the  greatest  country  for  ostrich  farm- 
ing, and  the  American  ladies  wear  more  of  the  feathers  than 
any  other  people. 

Mosscl  Bay  is  situated  on  the  southern  shore  of  a  bay  by 
the  same  name.  This  bay  was  one  of  the  first  known  to  Euro- 
pean navigators.  It  is  deep  water  and  is  a  safe  port  for  ships 
in  storms,  which  are  not  infrequent.  We  took  from  this  place 
a  cargo  of  ostrich  feathers  and  wool  and  left  a  cargo  of  Ran- 
goon rice.  Near  the  town  is  a  headland,  rising  sheer  from 
the  sea,  and  on  this  a  lighthouse  is  erected. 


135 


OLR    I1()L11).\\'    l.\    Al'KICA 


CAPE  TOWN,  CAPE  COLONY,  SOUTH  AFRICA 


We  sailed  into  Table  Bay  on  April  22,  1912,  and  were 
delighted  to  reach  Cape  Town,  often  having  heard  of  it  for 
its  beautiful  situation.  It  has  a  population  of  about  two  hun- 
dred thousand,  and  it  is  surrounded  on  one  side  by  the  sea, 
and  on  three  sides  by  wonderfully  picturesque  mountains.  The 
business  part  of  the  city  is  solidly  built  with  many  stone  and 
brick  structvu'es.  The  Parliament  buildings  are  very  fine,  as 
is  the  postoffice.  Standard  Bank  of  Africa,  custom  house  and 
public  library.  The  largest  mercantile  blocks  and  hotels  would 
do  credit  to  our  best  American  cities.  Idie  streets  are  wide  and 
kept  remarkably  clean  and  neat. 

'liable  Bay  is  what  originall}-  made  Cape  Town.  It  i.-. 
such  a  fine  natural  harbor  that  the  trading  ships  for  India 
in  early  days  made  this  a  half-way  stopping  place  before  the 
Suez  Canal  was  built.  Even  yet  it  is  the  half-way  to  India 
for  many  ships  to  call  and  renew  their  supplies. 

The  Holland  Dutch  settled  Cape  Town  and  held  it  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  years.  About  one  hundred  years  ago 
the  English  took  the  place  by  force.  Since  the  Boer  War, 
in  which  the  English  had  such  a  hard  time  to  concjuer  them, 
they  have  given  back  to  them  so  much  of  the  government  that 
the  Parliament  is  made  up  of  Boers  and  English,  and  both  lan- 
guages are  spoken,  and  all  public  documents  are  printed  in 
both  Dutch  and  English.  As  the  railways  are  owned  and  oper- 
ated by  the  government,  all  the  cars  and  stations  have  both 
the  Dutch  and  English  names  and  both  languages  are  taught 
in  the  public  schools.  These  sturdy  Boers  do  not  like  the  En- 
glish, and  many  of  them  will  not  learn  to  speak  the  English 
language.  On  their  most  prominent  street  a  bronze  statue  of 
the  first  Dutch  governor.  Van  Reebeck,  stands. 

The  mountains  give  the  town  the  finest  setting,  entitling 
it  to  rank  in  beauty  with  Naples,  Rio  Janeiro  and  San  Fran- 
cisco, the  most  beautiful  seaports  of  the  world. 

Table  Mountain  rises  back  of  the  town  three  thousand  five 


/ 


Ol'R   11()J.I1)A^■    IX   AFRICA 


CAPE  TO\A'X 

nundred  and  eighty-two  feet,  cutting  the  sky  Hne  with  its  hor- 
izontal front  for  two  miles.  To  the  left  is  Devil's  Peak,  thirty- 
three  hundred  feet  high,  and  to  the  right  is  Lion's  Head, 
twenty-one  hundred  feet  high.  The  two  lower  mountains 
stand  in  advance  of  Table  Mountain  and  together  they  form 
the  Horse  Shoe  Valley,  in  which  Cape  Town  is  located. 

The  old  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  commenced  in  1699, 
was  the  first  erected  in  South  Africa,  which  makes  it  the  most 
ancient  of  all  structures  in  Cape  Town.  The  clock  tower  con- 
tains the  clock  which  was  sent  from  Holland  in  1727.  This 
is  the  only  part  of  the  original  church  now  standing,  the  re- 
mainder having  been  rebuilt,  and  seats  three  thousand  persons. 
The  great  hundred-foot  span  of  the  roof  is  most  notable.  No 
supporting  posts  in  this  church.  Beneath  the  floor  lies  the 
remains  of  eight  of  the  first  Dutch  governors,  which  has 
caused  it  to  be  called  the  "Westminster"  of  South  Africa. 

On  Sundays  they  hold  three  services  in  this  great  church ; 
preaching  at  ele\'en  in  the  morning,  and  three  in  the  afternoon 
is  in  Dutch.  Init  at  the  evening  services,  it  is  in  English.  Wt: 
attended  the  e\ening  service,  heard  a  good  sermon  with  fine 
music  from  a  choir  of  fifty  voices.  The  pulpit  is  raised  about 
twenty  feet  high  on  the  side  of  this  great  audience  room,  which 
is  a  hundred  feet  wide,  two  hundred  feet  long  and  about  sixty 
feet  high,  fhe  pews  are  very  high,  with  straight  backs,  and 
it  is  extremely  plainly  furnished.  We  took  an  automobile  drive 
cut  to  Houts  Bay,  going  over  the  justly  celebrated  Victoria 
road,  cut  into  the  side  of  the  mountain  and  o\erlooking  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  on  one  side.  Sometimes  it  is  liigh  abo\'e  the 
water,  and  again  near  the  sea.  A  most  magnificent  \'iew  of 
the  sea.  win'ch  reminds  us  \ery  much  of  the  famous  Sorrento- 
Amalfa  Drive  in  Southern  Italy  along  the  Mediterranean  Sea. 

Arriving  at  Houts  Bay  we  walked  along  the  sandy  beach 
where  the  .surf  was  rolling  in.  This  is  a  beautiful  little  bay. 
almost  shut  in  by  the  mountains.  On  one  side  where  the  water 
is  deep  the  fishing  is  fine.  We  saw  several  wagon  loads  of 
fish  being  taken  to  the  city  market.      Great  big   fellows  that 

139 


OUR  HOLIl).\^■   l.\   AI'klCA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


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OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


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CAPE  TOWN 

would  weigh  ten  or  twenty  pounds,  and  two  feet  long,  all 
caught  with  hook  and  line.  The  water  is  cold  and  the  fish  are 
fine  eating.  After  having  tea  at  a  little  hotel  at  the  bay  we 
returned  b}'  another  road,  going  back  of  the  mountains,  and 
here  the  scenery  was  more  delightful  even  than  by  the  seashore. 
The  road  rises  half  way  to  the  mountain  tops  and  passes 
through  a  gap  between  the  high  peaks.  In  the  little  valley  the 
market  gardeners  have  their  cosey  little  homes  with  thatched 
roofs  l)uilt  in  Dutch  style.  \\'e  passed  through  a  suburb  called 
Wynburg,  where  many  of  the  fields  were  covered  with  grape 
vines,  and  it  is  in  this  section  that  great  quantities  of  wine 
are  made,  to  be  exported  from  Cape  l^)wn.  We  passed 
through  several  dense  forests  where  the  trees  were  so  thick 
that  they  shut  out  the  sun  and  sky  from  the  roadway.  \Vhen 
we  would  come  out  in  the  open  space  between  the  forests  we 
could  see  for  miles  over  the  country  dotted  with  homes  built 
in  Dutch  st}le,  surrounded  with  well  trimmed  evergreen  hedges 
and  fields  of  grape  vines.  It  was  certainly  the  most  beautiful 
and  picturescjue  dri\-e  that  we  have  ever  taken. 

At  another  time  we  went  to  Camps  Bay  on  the  tram  cars. 
This  is  another  most  uni(|ue  trip.  On  leaving  Cape  Town 
the  road  climbs  the  mountain  side  to  Kloofs  Neck  about  a 
thousand  feet  above  the  town.  It  is  a  pass  between  Table 
Mountain  and  Lion's  Head.  From  this  point  the  view  is  mag- 
nificent over  city  and  bay.  A\  e  proceeded  along  the  mountain 
side  on  the  back  of  Lion's  Head,  graduall}'  dropping  down 
until  we  came  to  Camps  Ba\'  on  the  sea  side.  There  are  here 
twelve  small  mountain  i^eaks  above  the  sea  shore  called  the 
twelve  apostles. 


143 


Ol'k    IIOI.IDAN"   l\   AI'RICA 


CECIL  JOHN  RHODES 


W'e  went  out  to  see  the  home  of  the  right  Hon.  Cecil 
Rhodes,  called  Groote  Shiiiir.  It  is  an  estate  of  several  hun- 
dred acres,  lying  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  much  of  which 
is  covered  by  a  forest  of  pine  trees.  The  avenue  leading  to  it 
is  through  a  stately  collonade  of  pines,  nearly  a  hundred  feet 
wide.  The  estate  is  laid  out  in  gardens,  has  a  high  fenced  past- 
ure for  herds  (jf  animals,  such  as  the  South  African  buck,  zel^ra, 
monkeys  and  other  beasts,  and  houses  built  especially  for  them. 
The  house  is  stately  looking,  built  of  white  plaster  and  brick 
with  a  fine  \eranda  across  the  front.  At  his  death  it  was  willed 
to  the  Cape  C(dony  government,  to  be  occupied  by  the  Premier 
of  the  Union  of  South  African  States.  At  present  it  is  occu- 
pied by  General  Botha,  of  Boer  War  fame.  At  a  high  point 
on  the  Rhodes"  estate  is  a  "Classical  Monimient"  of  "Ph}'sical 
Energy,"  erected  by  the  nation  to  the  memory  of  'Sir.  Rhodes. 
From  there  on.e  has  a  \'iew  of  Ta1)le  Mountain  and  Dex-il's  Peak 
on  one  side,  and  over  the  bay  and  Cape  Flats  on  the  other.  In 
the  botanical  gardens  in  the  central  part  of  Cape  Town  is  a 
fine  statue  of  Mr.  Rhodes,  representing  him  delivering  a 
speech,  dressed  in  his  customary  business  suit  with  his  right 
hand  raised.  An  inscription  on  the  pedestal,  evidently  taken 
from  his  speech,  reads  "Yonder  is  }-(HU-  Hinter  Land."  He 
was  easily  the  greatest  man  that  Modern  Africa  has  produced, 
and  died  at  the  early  age  of  forty-nine.  His  policies  are  still 
being  carried  out,  l)ut  if  he  had  h\ed  another  twent}'  years  he 
would  tmdoubtedl}-  ha\e  rendered  greater  service  to  Africa, 
the  land  of  his  adoption.  As  it  is,  he  has  left  an  imprint,  not 
on]\-  on  Africa,  but  on  the  other  English,  speaking  people  of  the 
world.  His  will,  w  liich  pro\ided  scholarships  at  Oxford 
(where  he  was  educated)  for  young  men,  giving  them  three 
\-ears  in  tlii>  renowricd  unixersit}-.  was  the  crowning  act  of  his 
life.  Mr.  Rhodes  directed,  in  great  detail,  that  these  scholar- 
ships are  intended  to  more  closeh'  cement  all  English  speaking 
people.     The  scholarships  arc  distributed  as  follows:     South 

T45 


OIR   HOLIDAY  1\   Al-RUA 


CECIL  JOHN  RHODES 

Africa,  eight ;  Australia,  six ;  Xew  Zealand,  one ;  Canada,  two ; 
New  Fonndland,  one ;  Bermuda,  one :  Jamaica,  one ;  United 
States,  two;  for  each  state  and  territory,  ninety-six;  Germany, 
fifteen.  The  total  numl^er  of  scholarships,  one  hundred  and 
thirty-one,  annual  expense  ahout  fifteen  hundred  dollars  each, 
making  about  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  per  year,  to  con- 
tinue for  all  time.  He  had  about  one  million  dollars  per  annum 
income  at  his  death,  which  has  since  been  increased.  There 
is  no  reasonable  doubt  about  his  trustees  being  amply  able, 
financially,  to  carry  out  his  request.  His  largest  wealth  was 
in  Kimberly  Diamond  Alines.  In  addition  to  the  foregoing  he 
provided  annuities  for  his  relatives,  besides  many  legacies  for 
friends  and  servants.  Notice  that  our  o\\n  E^nited  States  gets 
about  three-fourths  of  this  endowment.  These  scholarships 
are  to  be  earned  by  competition  and  examination,  giving  the 
brightest  minds  among  English  speaking  young  men  an  oppor- 
tunity to  get  a  university  education.  These  young  men  will 
be  monuments  to  his  memory,  which  will  be  ()f  longer  duration 
than  monuments  made  of  marble  and  bronze.  We  have  two 
voung  men  of  our  own  city  now  being  educated  at  Oxford  at 
the  expense  of  the  Rhodes  endowment. 


SOUTH  AFRICAN  PARLIAMENT 

We  \'isited  the  Parliament  at  Cape  Town,  1)oth  the  Senate 
and  Representati\e  Chambers,  while  in  session.  There  were 
in  the  Senate  alxnit  forty  members,  and  a  speech  was  being 
made  in  English  on  the  stibject  of  irrigation,  ^vhich  is  very 
much  r.eeded  in  this  country,  where  rainfall  is  usually  deficient. 
In  the  house  of  the  Ivepresentati\'es  f|uite  a  spirited  debate  \vas 

T47 


Ol'R  HOLIDAY  IX   AI-RICA 


PARLIAAIENT 

going  on  over  the  revision  of  the  pohce  laws.  Some  of  the 
members  spoke  in  Enghsh,  others  in  Dutch,  and  some  in  both 
languages.  The  Speaker  of  the  House  read  the  motions  be- 
fore putting  them  to  \-ote.  first  in  English  and  then  in  Dutch, 
all  of  which  took  much  time,  and  one  would  think  it  rather  con- 
fusing. The  English  are  \ery  mild  and  diplomatic  in  their 
colonies  here,  as  well  as  elsewhere,  but  we  think  they  have  made 
a  mistake  here,  in  authorizing  two  legal  languages.  The  House 
of  Representatives  is  elected  l\v  the  people.  It  is  only  in  the 
Cape  Colony  State  that  the  negroes  are  permitted  to  vote, 
if  they  can  read  and  write,  and  have  two  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars"  worth  of  property. 

The  Senate  is  appointed  by  the  Governor,  also  the  Prime 
Minister,  and  the  (iovernor  is  appointed  by  the  King  of  En- 
gland. The  L'nion  of  South  African  States  at  present  con- 
sists of  Cape  Colcjuy,  Orange  Free  State,  Natal  and  the  Trans- 
vaal, with  a  Protectorate  over  Rhodesia,  which  may,  at  some- 
time, become  a  part  of  the  l'nion.  The  Boers  have  a  ma- 
jority of  the  members  of  the  House,  but  as  no  laws  can  be 
passed  without  the  concurrence  of  the  Senate,  the  Legislation 
must  be  satisfactory  to  the  English.  The  present  Governor  is 
Lord  Gladstone,  son  of  the  late  Premier  of  England.  There 
are  many  serious  jjroblems  for  the  Parliament  of  South  x\frica 
to  sol\-e,  one  of  the  most  im]jortant  of  these  is  the  care,  regu- 
lation, education  and  direction  of  the  negro  race.  The  pro- 
portion of  negroes  being  about  fifteen  to  one  of  the  whites. 
The  increase  of  the  negroes  is  very  rapid,  compared  to  the 
whites,  and  the  relatixe  number  will  continually  be  getting 
greater.  Formerly  this  increase  was  kept  somewhat  in  check 
by  the  continual  warfare  of  the  different  tribes,  l)ut  since  the 
English  govern  the  country  these  wars  are  not  permitted,  and 
their  numbers  are  rapidly  increasing. 


149 


OL'R  HOLll)A^■   IN"   .\l"kl(.\ 


SOUTH  AFRICA  NATIVES 


In  some  parts  of  Africa  where  the  natives  have  been  ci\ - 
ihzed  and  enhghtened,  it  is  claimed  that  there  is  much  discus- 
sion on  the  subject  of  "Africa  for  the  Africans."  It  has  been 
stated  that  the  negroes  emigrating  from  the  United  States 
to  Africa  are  preaching  this  doctrine.  There  are  only  about 
one  and  one-half  millions  of  whites  in  all  South  Africa,  not  in- 
cluding British  East  Africa  and  West  Africa.  They  could 
not  hold  this  country  if  the  millions  of  natives  were  armed, 
educated  and  had  a  leader  who  could  hold  the  various  factions 
together,  a  condition  which  is  not  likely  to  occur  in  a  thousand 
years. 

In  the  study  of  geograph}-  in  our  bo}hood  school  davs 
we  were  taught  something  about  the  nations  being  uncivil- 
ized, half  civilized,  civilized  and  enlightened,  and  we  confess 
that  we  never  realized  what  these  terms  really  meant,  until 
coming  on  this  trip,  and  here  we  have  seen  all  the  above  men- 
tioned grades  of  humanity. 

There  is  much  complaint  in  South  Africa  about  the  scar- 
city of  labor.  The  natives,  as  a  rule,  will  not  work  unless 
compelled  to  do  so,  and  it  has  been  suggested  that  the  white 
man  has  similar  ideas.  The  native  has  as  many  wives  as  he 
can  buy.  and  they  do  all  the  work,  building  their  huts,  plant- 
ing and  raising  the  few  crops  that  are  really  needed,  and  the 
man  is  simply  "The  Lord  of  all  Creation."  He  has  no  desire 
to  create  a  fortune  for  the  use  of  his  famih-  after  he  is  gone. 
"Why  should  he  work"?  The  only  incentive  which  makes  a 
portion  of  them  work  is  to  get  mone>'  to  buy  cattle, 
which  they  can  trade  for  wives.  The  price  of  a  wife  is  three 
cows,  and  that  has  kept  the  prices  of  cattle  high.  We  are 
told  that  cows  are  worth  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  dol- 
lars ])er  head  in  Central  Africa.  About  two  hundred  thousand 
native  men  are  employed  in  the  mines  here,  and  these  are 
drawn  from  all  parts  of  East  and  South  Africa.  That  of 
course,  has  something  to  do  with  the  scarcit\-  of  labor.     Form- 


ULR  ilUi.lDAV   IX  Al-RICA 


MADEIRA 

eiiy  the  gold  mines  on  the  Rand  were  worked  by  Chinese  labor, 
brought  here  on  contract,  to  Ije  returned  to  China  when  their 
contracts  expired.  The  home  g"o\ernment  in  England  raised 
an  objection  to  this  and  the  Chinese  laborers  were  sent  home. 
The  native  now  dees  this  work  to  the  detriment  of  the  farmer, 
who  r.eeds  more  help. 

After  nine  days  very  delightfully  spent   in  Cape  Town 
we  sailed  for  London. 


MADEIRA 


Aladeira  was  our  only  stop  on  our  \oyage  from  Cape 
Town  to  London,  of  seventeen  days,  and  we  only  stopped 
there  a  few  hours  to  get  the  mail  and  take  on  coal  and  water. 
It  was  a  pleasant  break  in  the  long  journey,  as  ^Madeira  is  one 
of  the  beautiful  and  cjuaint  places.  \\t  saw  but  few  changes 
since  we  were  here  a  few  years  ago.  The  island  belongs  to 
the  Portuguese  and  they  are  not  progressive,  and  do  not  keep 
the  city  in  sanitary  condition.  From  the  steamer  the  view  is 
fine,  as  the  mountains  are  ab(^ut  four  thousand  feet  high 
and  form  a  beautiful  background  to  the  city,  which  is  scat- 
tered along  the  water's  edge  and  half  wa}'  up  the  mountain 
side. 

On  landing  we  t(»ok  the  ordinar)  ox  sled,  \\hich  is  most 
commonly  used  here,  and  were  conveyed  through  the  town  to 
the  cog  railway  station,  where  we  boarded  the  little  train, 
which  consists  of  a  small  cog  locomotive  behind  one  coach, 
which  carries  fifty  people.  Tn  a  (|uarter  of  an  hour  we  were 
pushed  lialf  way  up  the  mountain  to  a  hotel,  where  we  enjoyed 
our  breakfast.     The  air  is  inxigorating  at  this  elexation,  two 

153 


oik    IK  )i.ll).W    l.\   AI'klCA 


MADEIRA 

thousand  feet,  and  the  view  over  the  ]ydy  and  citv  is  heautiful. 
Being  situated  in  latitude  thirty-three  degrees  north,  the  vege- 
tation and  flowers  looked  lovely  to  us,  after  having  l)een  on 
the  sea  for  thirteen  days.  After  enjoying  this  scene  for  a 
short  time  we  engaged  a  sled  and  two  nati\'e  guides  and  coast- 
ed down  the  mountain  side  for  two  miles,  d'ime,  ten  minutes, 
which  was  "going  some"  over  the  narrow  r()adwa\',  paved 
with  smooth,  round  pehbles.  That  is  a  great  amusement  that 
we  ha\'e  ne\'er  heard  of  in  any  other  place  but  Madeira,  to 
coast  down  the  mountain  on  sleds  without  snow.  While  our 
steamer  was  anchored  in  the  harbor  we  were  continually  sur- 
rounded by  native  Portuguese,  in  their  small  boats,  begging 
us  to  throw  silver  coins  in  the  Avater  to  see  them  dive,  and 
they  would  invariably  get  the  money.  Manv  of  them  climbed 
to  the  topmost  deck  of  our  steamer,  sixty  or  seventv  feet 
above  the  water  and  dived  into  the  sea  from  that  great  height. 
Madeira  is  noted  for  its  exports  of  wine,  hand  made  emljroid- 
ery  and  willow  chairs.  It  is  also  a  great  winter  resort  for 
the  English  people. 

On  the  voyage  from  Madeira  to  Southampton,  which 
takes  four  days,  we  had  high  seas  and  a  great  roll  to  our 
ship,  especially  while  passing  through  the  Bay  of  Biscay. 
This  is  generally  considered  a  rough  part  of  the  sea.  In  one 
place  the  sea  was  strewn  for  miles  wdth  floating  fence  posts. 
Evidently  a  ship  had  met  rough  weather  and  her  cargo  of 
fence  posts  had  slid  off  her  deck. 


^55 


OL'R    II()L1I).\^     l.\    AI'kICA 


EXGLAXD 


After  a  \-o}'age  of  seventeen  days  from  Cape  Town  we 
were  delighted  to  arrive  in  England,  and  soon  boarded  the 
train  for  London.  This  is  the  most  beautiful  season  in  En- 
gland. All  the  country  is  like  one  great  park,  clothed  with 
greenest  vegetation.  The  well  trimmed  hedges,  the  lovely 
country  homes  and  prosperous  towns,  all  looked  so  charming" 
after  our  long  voyage,  that  we  wear  a  "smile  that  won't  come 
off."  To  us,  London  is  the  most  interesting  city  in  the  world. 
There  is  so  much  of  interest  to  be  seen,  both  old  and  new\ 
We  motored  out  to  Windsor  Palace  through  the  most  beau- 
tiful country  along  the  Thames  River,  and  back  through  Rich- 
mond Park  and  Hampton  Court.  Although  this  is  so  near 
London,  there  are  large  estates  where  we  saw  herds  of  deer 
and  antelope.  It  was  a  holiday  and  the  river  was  full  of  pleas- 
ure craft.  \\'e  dro\-e  through  avenues  of  great  chestnut  trees 
in  full  l)loom,  Some  white  and  others  with  the  most  beautiful 
pink  blossoms,  and  acres  of  rhododendrons.  Another  day  we 
took  a  drive  to  the  old  part  of  the  city,  to  London  Bridge, 
the  London  Tower,  through  the  many  streets  made  memorable 
by  Dickens,  among  which  are.  Hounds  Ditch,  Petticoat  Lane, 
Thread  Needle  Street,  past  the  Bank  of  England,  the  old  Bai- 
ley Prison,  the  London  Library,  the  British  Museum.  Trafal- 
gar Square  and  I'iccadilly  Circus,  etc.  AA'e  tried  the  Tupenny 
Tube,  and  it  does  not  compare  with  out  subway  in  Xew  ^  ork. 
We  entered  bv  an  elevator  which  dropped  us  down  about 
ninetv  feet.  This  tube  is  only  wide  enough  for  one  train,  and 
that  is  a  very  close  fit.  which,  with  the  great  depth  below  the 
surface,  makes  one  feel  very  shut  in  and  stuffy.  There  are 
very  few  surface  car  lines  in  London,  and  no  elevated  ones. 
ATost  of  the  street  transportation  is  done  by  motor  busses, 
built  large  enough  to  carry  twenty  passengers  inside,  and 
twentv  on  to]),  and  they  run  everywhere:  but  the  most  con- 
venient and  agreeable  transportation  in  London  is  the  motor 
taxi  cab.     There  arc  thousands  of  them  and  they  are  all  pol- 

LS7 


oik  IK  )1J1).\^   i.\  Ai'kiCA 


NATIVE  AND  BABOON. 


ENGLAND 

ished  and  clean,  and  charge  onl)'  eight-pence  or  sixteen  cents 
a  mile. 

Just  opposite  our  hotel  was  a  new  building,  the  "Royal 
Society  of  Medicine."  It  was  opened  by  the  King  and  Queen 
w^hile  we  were  there.  As  our  room  on  the  second  story  front- 
ed this  building  we  had  a  fine  \'iew  of  Royalty,  as  they  drove 
up  in  their  carriage.  The  King  and  Queen  looked  exactly 
like  their  pictures,  with  whom  all  are  familiar. 

We  attended  the  Internaticjnal  Horticultural  Exhibition, 
the  finest  show  of  the  kind  since  1864.  There  were  acres  of 
flow^ers,  each  variet}-  being  placed  together,  and  e\ery  \ariety 
of  the  most  superb  grown.  The  roses  were  as  large  as  cab- 
bag'es,  many  of  them  so  large  that  they  looked  artificial,  and 
the  orchids  were  the  finest  and  greatest  variety  that  was  ever 
shown.  The  vegetables  and  fruits  were  also  extraordinarily 
fine.  It  was  with  regret  that  we  left  this  great  city,  as  w-e 
sailed  for  home  on  the  Cunard  Line  'Si'dy  23,  1912.  In  going 
to  Liverpool,  the  railway  runs  through  much  the  most  beau- 
tiful pirt  of  England,  and  at  this  time  of  the  year  the  country 
looks  its  best,  and  we  thoroughly  enjoyed  it. 

England  is  a  tht)usand  }ears  older  than  the  Lnited  States, 
and  is  a  finished  country,  while  ours  is  still  in  the  making. 
Proljablv  bv  the  time  we  are  as  old  as  England  the  C(^untry 
will  be  much  more  beautiful.  In  crossing  the  Atlantic,  when 
out  about  a  thousand  miles,  we  received  the  following  wireless 
message:  "Mav  2~,  1912,  Captain  of  the  Campania,  greeting: 
You  are  now  communicating  with  the  oldest  ship  afloat,  the 
Australian  (^ Mulct  Ship,  'Success,'  formerly  known  as  the 
'Ocean  Hell.'  We  are  bound  for  New  York,  under  our  own 
sail,  sixteen  days  out,  all  well."  She  will  be  a  great  curiosity 
when  she  arri\es  in  New  ^'ork. 

Our  ship  took  a  new  course,  two  hundred  miles  south 
of  the  usual  crossing',  to  ax'oid  icebergs.  We  did  not  see  any 
ice,  but  saw  many  steamers.  .\n  oil  barge  that  had  fix'e  large 
s(|uare  sails  being  towed  by  a  steamer.  It  was  the  queerest 
shi])  we  have  ex'er  seen  in  mid-ocean,  and  not  the  kind  of  craft 

159 


OIK   I1()1J1)A^■   l.\   AI-klCA 


COLOBUS    :\IOXKEY— fEXTRAL   AFRICA. 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IN  AFRICA 


AFRICAN   LEOPARD. 


OUR  IIOLIDAN'   IX  AI"klCA 


m 


SUMMARY 

that  we  would  like  to  sail  on  when  the  sea  is  rough.  We  saw 
several  whale,  and  about  half  the  deck  of  a  large  steamer  that 
passed  us  quite  close.  We  could  not  tell  to  what  ship  this 
deck  had  once  belonged,  but  being  about  two  hundred  miles 
south  of  where  the  Titanic  sunk,  and  six  weeks  since  that 
horrible  disaster,  it  might  have  been  part  of  that  unfortunate 
ship. 


SUMMARY. 

After  the  short  visit  we  have  made  to  this  \ast  continent. 
from  our  observation  we  would  say  that  we  think  the  soil  is 
generally  thin  and  poor.  There  are  but  few  thick  jungles, 
such  as  are  found  in  the  tropics  in  A\'est  Indies  or  South  Am- 
erica, even  under  the  equator  there  are  no  such  great  jungles 
of  forest  as  are  found  in  Brazil.  While  the  soil  near  the 
equator  is  the  best  we  saw  in  Africa,  and  raises  good  crops, 
it  does  not  equal  the  fertile  prairies  of  our  United  States.  In 
Rhodesia,  as  well  as  most  of  South  Africa,  in  the  central 
port  of  the  continent,  much  of  the  country  is  sparsely  covered 
with  small  trees  about  as  large  as  apple  trees,  and  thin  grass; 
this  is  called  "the  Veldt,"  and  covers  much  of  Central  Africa. 
Along  the  coast,  and  for  one  or  two  hundred  miles  inland. 
the  soil  is  better,  and  here  are  produced  the  best  crops  in 
South  Africa,  but  not  equal  to  those  raised  in  South  America. 
West  Indies  or  United  States.  The  rainfall  in  British  East 
Africa  is  ample,  and  more  than  needed  for  crops,  but  in  nearly 
all  of  South  Africa  is  deficient  and  will  prevent  its  ever  being 
a  great  agricultural  country.  The  weather,  of  course,  is  gen- 
eral1\-  from  warm  to  hot,  yet  is  suitable  for  white  peo])le  in 
nearly  all  the  inland  sections  where  the  ele^■ati(^n  is  usually 
from  4000  to  6000  feet  abo\c  sea  level.     The  fl\-  pest  abides 

163 


OLK   HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


s,- 


^^k»* 


"A 


^ 


y^. 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


OIU   IIOLIDAN    IX   Al-UICA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


OL'R  IIOLTD.W   I\  Al'kICA 


SUMMARY 

along  some  of  the  low  lands  near  the  sea.  and  some  of  the  in- 
land lakes;  in  such  places  cattle  and  horses  cannot  he  raised, 
but  the  donkey  and  goat  will  survive. 

These  fly  infected  districts,  the  white  man  will  du  well 
to  avoid,  and  in  some  sections  the  negro  cannot  li\-e  until  the 
"Tsetse  Fly"  has  been  driven  out.  Another  pest  is  the  ants. 
In  nearly  all  parts  of  Africa  where  we  have  been,  except  the 
extreme  southern  part,  there  are  ant  hills  from  one  to  ten  feet 
high,  in  some  places  more  numerous  than  hay  cocks  in  a 
meadow,  and  special  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  them  out  of 
the  h(juse  and  out  of  the  fcwjd.  ]\Iost  of  the  upland  interior 
is  adapted  to  grazing  cattle,  horses,  sheep  and  ostriches,  and 
large  ranches  are  being  established  in  some  sections.  We  met 
a  large  cattle  raiser  who  has  his  ranches  two  hundred  and  fiftv 
miles  north  of  Victoria  Falls,  near  the  Belgian  Congo  line, 
where  he  reports  that  cattle  do  well  after  they  become  ac- 
climated; he  has  brought  out  from  England  many  head  of  high 
grade  breeding  stock :  about  three  quarters  of  these  die  be- 
fore they  become  acclimated,  but  he  is  gaining  on  the  quality 
of  his  cattle,  and  is  now  going  back  to  England  after  more 
thoroughbred  cattle.  Although  the  soil  and  climate  seems  to 
be  well  adapted  to  fruit  culture  in  all  parts  of  the  continent,  but 
little  progress  has  been  made  in  fruit  so  far.  Oranges  are 
small,  green  and  sour,  in  fact  we  did  not  find  any  good  fruit, 
excepting  the  bananas  in  British  East  Africa,  until  we  arrived 
at  Cape  Town,  and  there  they  have  fine  fruit  of  all  kinds  in 
season.  The  grapes  in  Cape  Colony  are  extra  fine,  and  that 
section  is  already  a  large  wine  producing  country. 

Wild  game  of  all  kinds  is  plenty  in  nearly  all  portions 
of  Africa,  except  those  places  along  the  coast  where  the  white 
settlers  have  killed  or  driven  them  aw^ay :  elephants,  rhinoceros, 
buffalo,  giraffe,  zebra,  antelope,  ostrich,  monkeys,  baboons, 
lions,  leopards.  h}-enas.  etc..  and  along  the  water  hippopotamus, 
crocodiles  and  alligators.  About  three-fourths  of  all  the 
game  is  of  the  antelope  species,  such  as  the  eland,  which  are 
the  largest  and  weigh  a  thousand  pounds  when   full  grown  : 

169 


OUR   IIOIJDAV  JX   Al'RICA 


OUR  HOLIDAY  IX  AFRICA 


X 


OL'R  HOLII).\\-   l.\   A1-KIC"A 


SUMMARY 

then  the  wildebeest  which  weigh  five  to  seven  hundred  pounds, 
and  the  hartebeest.  which  weigh  three  hundred  pounds,  Grants 
gazehes,  Thompson  gazelles,  even  down  to  the  little  dik-dik, 
which  weigh  fifteen  pounds  or  less.  All  these  antelope  species 
are  good  meat  for  the  white  man,  and  the  zebra,  which  come 
next  in  number,  are  considered  fine  meat  by  the  natives. 

Probably  the  best  hunting  ground  in  Africa  today  is  be- 
tween the  Belgian  Congo  and  Lake  Tanganyiki,  about  one 
thousand  miles  north  of  Victoria  Falls ;  all  kinds  of  African 
game  are  reported  so  plenty  there  that  hunting  is  more  like 
shooting  sheep  than  wild  animals. 

Africa  will  undoubtedly  get  a  large  immigration  from 
Europe  for  many  years  to  come.  It  is  a  very  interesting  coun- 
try for  the  traveler  who  is  seeking  the  strange  and  unusual, 
and  we  enjoyed  our  trip  very  greatly.  However,  there  is  noth- 
ing to  induce  our  people  to  emigrate  to  that  part  of  the  world, 
nor  do  we  think  that  there  is  a  country  on  the  globe  that  has 
as  many  advantages  and  opportunities  for  the  poor  man  as 
our  own  United  States.  We  are  delighted  to  get  home  after 
an  absence  of  four  months,  having  traveled  about  eighteen 
thousand  miles  by  sea  and  five,  thousand  by  land,  around  the 
continent  and  through  much  of  the  interior.  We  never  missed 
a  connection  by  steamer  or  rail,  had  no  accidents  or  mishaps 
of  any  kind,  did  not  miss  a  meal  while  away,  return  invigor- 
ated in  body  and  mind,  and  ready  for  work  :  here  ends  "Our 
Holidav  In  Africa." 


^73 


PRESS   OF    COMBE  PRINTING    CO. 
ST.  JOSEPH.  MO..  U.S.A. 


-] 


UCSB    LIbKAKi 


■■'*^'' 


.'.>.'.'k<: 


